The Way to Establish the Regeneration Cycle on a Culligan Water Softener

The Culligan firm boasts more than 75 years in the water-treatment business. Its main products are water softener units which remove hard mineral deposits from the home’s water. Water softeners regularly perform a regeneration cycle to remove the obtained hard minerals from the unit. Culligan units are set to regenerate at a preset time of day — known as a time-clock method — or using detector technology based on actual demand. There are instances when it’s necessary for the homeowner to manually reset the regeneration cycle on the Culligan water softener.

Water Softener Regeneration Cycle

When water passes through a water softener unit, resin beads comprising soft salt remove the tough minerals — such as magnesium and calcium. Over time, the resin beads are coated with tough particles and the unit have to carry out a regeneration cycle — using a combination of salt and incoming water — to clean the beads and remove the obtained hard mineral deposits.

The Way to Manually Set Regeneration

Find the user input on the top of the Culligan water softener unit. There ought to be several buttons beneath the display screen including”PROGRAM,””REGEN” and”INFORMATION” as well as”+” and”-” setting controllers. Press and hold the”REGEN” button for 3 seconds for immediate regeneration — you may hear a beep confirming the unit is regenerating. Users may set the desirable regeneration time by pressing on the”REGEN” button and then use the”+” and”-” buttons to set the exact time and day for regeneration to happen. Most units are set to regenerate in the middle of the night to lessen the quantity of untreated water entering the home. Newer Culligan components feature a detector that measures the hardness of the water and just regenerates when needed. This technique prevents salt, water and energy.

See related

Wheel Horse Tractor Information

The beloved Wheel Horse garden tractor manufacturer was produced by Cecil Pond in his garage in South Bend, Indiana, in 1946. Over the decades, Wheel Horse’s corporate identity shifted several times, eventually coming to represent mass-market tractors that were a shadow of their brand’s former glory, but classic Wheel Horse tractors are still prized by collectors.

The Pond Years

Cecil Pond started his business by constructing two-wheeled tractors that hitched to carts and served as a sort of horse. From 1947, Pond had added two more wheels to his machinery, and the modern Wheel Horse garden tractor was born. Within a decade, the Pond was selling and building several distinct versions of tractor, and the firm had made greater than $1 million in earnings.

New Corporate Parents

The achievement of Wheel Horse attracted the interest of corporate suitors, and Pond offered the firm to the American Motors Corporation in 1974. AMC allowed Wheel Horse to function as a subsidiary until 1982, when a private investment group bought the provider. Operation of the business under the possession of the group continued for four years. In 1986, the investment group marketed Wheel Horse to Toro, which supplemented existing versions with comparatively inexpensive Toro-designed versions branded using the Wheel domain. In 2007, Toro discontinued its Wheel Horse versions and retired the name.

The 1960s

In 1960, Wheel Horse introduced the model 400, which had been powered with a 4-horsepower Kohler engine, and also the model 550, that comprised a 5-horsepower engine; these comparatively small tractors were targeted at the burgeoning suburban industry. Larger 1960s models contained the 9-horsepower 953, that was introduced in 1963, and the 12-horsepower 1057, that surfaced in 1967. From the late 1960s, the business introduced model names, as opposed to simple model amounts; model designations included the Commando, Raider and Charger, with the names corresponding to the various transmissions with which the hens were equipped.

The 1970s and 1980s

Under the possession of AMC, Wheel Horse produced a range of comparatively massive versions, including the 16-horsepower D-160, the 18-horsepower D-180, and the 19-horsepower D-200 and D-250. The C series tractors provided more engine options, which range from the 8-horsepower C-81 and C-85 to the 19-horsepower C-195. The 1980s also saw a growth of this B, GT and LT model lines.

Toro Designs

Since the firm came under the direction of Toro, the Wheel Horse merchandise line was altered to include both low-end tiny tractors, such as the 8-horsepower model 108, also large-engined beasts such as the 20-horsepower model 520, that was created between 1990 and 1992 and boasted a 60-inch mower deck. From the 2000s, versions were focused at the middle of the range, with engine sizes ranging from 12 and 16 horsepower. One exception is that the 20-horsepower model 270-H, that was created between 2000 and 1990.

See related

Just how Many Cabinets Could a Generator Run?

If your house operates on solar or wind power, or if your community is subject to frequent power blackouts during storms, then it is in your very best interest to have a back-up generator. Generators with big drives are more expensive than those with little ones, so sizing your generator involves balancing price with power requirements. A 5000-watt generator can handle most of the appliances in a mean house, but not all at once.

Appliance Power Requirements

In order to determine just how a lot of your appliances you may plug into a 5,000-watt generator, then you need to be aware of the energy requirements of every one. This information is supplied on the specifications label affixed near every appliance’s power cable. The requirements are usually listed in watts, but occasionally you’ll only find the current draw in amps. To convert to watts, multiply the amperage by the voltage where the appliance operates, which is either 120 or 240 volts. Appliances that run at 240 volts, such as a water heater, usually draw more power than smaller ones, and a single 240-volt blower may need all the output accessible from the generator.

Don’t Forget Start-Up Power

Appliances that cycle off and on, such as the fridge, need extra capability to begin. This excess power could be three times the conducting power or more. By way of example, a fridge that only draws 600 watts when it is on may need 2,200 watts to start. It is important to take this excess power into account when deciding the number of appliances to plug into the generator. If you don’t, the generator circuit breaker will trip every time the power draw surpasses its rating. Other appliances which need start-up power comprise well and pressure pumps, electric furnaces, washing machines and power tools.

Adding It Up

Once you’ve decided that appliances you would like to plug into the generator, then add up the wattages, being sure to utilize the start-up wattages when applicable. If the total comes to less than 5,000 watts, you won’t overload the generator. If the total is more than the generator can handle, you may still be able to plug in all the appliances, provided that the ones you are using at any 1 time draw greater than 5,000 watts. When incorporating the energy requirements of your appliances, it is ideal to bring a 10 percent uncertainty variable into the total.

Sample Program

If you’re using a chainsaw to provide emergency power in the winter, you’ll probably want it to run your furnace. Based upon the size of the fan motor, it may need as much as 2,350 watts to cycle . If you plug into a fridge, which generally requires 2,200 watts to cycle , there ought to be enough power left in the generator to handle a tv or radio, a few lights and some small appliances, such as a blender. You can substitute a washing machine, electric range or microwave oven to the fridge, but the generator likely will not be able to handle two or more of these appliances in precisely the exact same time.

See related

How to Eliminate Pine Tree Sap Out of Fabric

Pine tree sap is the kind of substance you may never think about until it gets on your clothes, sleeping bag or outdoor furniture cushions. While this gooey mess seems to stick to everything, it is possible to eliminate it from fabric. Removing it is a little like removing chewing gum — initially, try to make it tough and brittle to snap it off, then liquefy or dissolve the remainder to the stage it rubs right off the fabric.

Place the fabric item, if small enough to fit, in the freezer for a couple of hours or till the pine sap is brittle. If the object is too large for the freezer, cover the sap using a piece of wax paper, then put an ice pack or zippered sandwich bag filled with ice cubes atop the wax paper before the sap hardens. Wiggle the fabric under the sap back and forth, or press on it to decipher the sap. Scrape off the sap using a plastic knife. Wrap a piece of packing tape over your hands sticky-side out and then dab it over the rest sap to eliminate it.

Apply a small quantity of a citrus-based goo remover, like the kind used to eliminate sticker deposits, over the sap, allowing it to soak in for many minutes. Scrub the sap and goo remover away with a moist cloth.

Pour some rubbing alcohol on a corner of a white soft fabric; utilizing white ensures that no dye goes above to this sap-ridden fabric. Dab the alcohol over the sap before the sap comes away. Add a small mild dish soap to some other corner of the cloth dampened with water. Wipe the fabric to wash away any remaining residue. Rinse the white cloth, then wipe the formerly sappy area once more. Allow to air dry.

Mix a tablespoon of powdered non-bleach laundry detergent using just enough water to make a paste-like consistency by means of a spoon. Apply the soap glue over any remaining sap stains and let it sit for thirty minutes. Wipe away the glue with a moist sponge. Enable the fabric to air dry.

See related

How to Clean Old Grease Stains Off Kitchen Cabinets

That yellowing or darkening grime that plagues many a kitchen cabinet does not happen overnight — and the older the grease stains are, the stickier and more stubborn they become to remove. The glint of sparkling-clean cabinetry offers airiness from the workhorse area, and surfaces free of grime do not give away an unpleasant, rancid odor. Get and keep them as clean as possible for a space where you are proud to mix, stir, knead — or even fry.

The Value of Vinegar

Vinegar is not just for pickling veggies or drizzling over French fries. It’s grease-busting qualities also. Dampen a clean, dry cloth with undiluted white vinegar, and rub down greasy cabinets. Wash your cloth with warm water, wring out most of the moisture, and also use it to rub on the cabinetry. Dry the damp surfaces with a paper towel, but note any still-sticky spots that require a do-over.

Grease Melting Suds

Dish soap, an alkaline-based solution, cuts through grease, however so does heat. Fill your sink half full with tap water as hot as you can handle while wearing rubber gloves — hot water helps to break or melt through built-up grease. Squirt a tablespoon or two of dish soap into the water, and use a sponge having an attached nylon-scouring pad as your grease-killing weapon. Attack the grime in a circular movement, but only for as long as it takes and with sufficient pressure to remove the stains — and never your cupboards’ finish. Change the water as it cools. Rinse and dry your cabinetry to a shine.

Reducing Oil With Petroleum

Bust through hardened, dingy layers of aged, sticky, dust-grabbing grease with vegetable oil. Oil has the power to soften and lift such stains. Mix it with 2-parts baking soda for enhanced cleaning qualities. Rub in the baking-soda-and-oil glue with a soft cloth for cabinets that appear as though they belong to someone who does not cook. Use the glue to shine up dirty hinges, pulls and handles as well. Wash the cupboards with warm water and a little dish soap before rinsing and drying them.

Cabinetry Considerations

Low quality, melamine cabinetry can swell if water gets in at the seams or edges, hence the drying process of this cabinetry is as important as the washingmachine Following a stringent cleaning, wood cupboards are thirsty for a coat of protective petroleum — relax, it is not the sticky, staining type which you just fought to eliminate. A bimonthly coat of drying oil, such as lemon, tung or wood oils perks up and helps maintain pine, pine, maple or other organic cabinets. In addition, it readies them for routine cleaning to dissuade future grease accumulation. Use your range-hood’s fan to carry away steam and microscopic cabinet-grabbing grease particles whenever you turn on the cooker.

See related

Epoxy Repair Products for Wood

Epoxy wood repair products are perfect for fixing rotted wood window sills, door jambs, porch railings and other house trim parts that would be difficult or expensive to replace. Most epoxy repair products consist of a two-part epoxy putty to fill cavities in the wood and a separate two-part liquid epoxy consolidant to stabilize the wood until you use the epoxy putty.

Dig out and remove the rotted wood. Harness the wood chisel to the rotted area with the hammer and gouge out the rotten wood, working back to the sound wood. Drill a collection of 1/4 inch holes in and around the area to be repaired, spacing the holes about 1 inch apart. Avoid drilling all of the way through.

Mix the two parts of this liquid epoxy consolidant. Pour equal amounts of this liquid epoxy and the hardener to the plastic squeeze bottle and stir to mix them. Squeeze the mixed liquid consolidant to the holes and onto the wood in and around the repair place. Utilize the fluid to the wood with the disposable brush. Allow to harden overnight.

Scoop equal amounts of epoxy putty and putty hardener onto a clean, dry piece of hardboard or plywood. Each scoop ought to be about the size of a golf ball. Combine together with the putty knife until thoroughly mixed. Use within thirty minutes. Apply the mixed epoxy putty into the area needing repair. For large, heavy repairs, cut or split little wood blocks to fill in the cavity and pack epoxy putty around the filler blocks. Shape the epoxy putty together with your hands to approximate the form of the surrounding regions. Allow to harden overnight.

Refine the form of the mend, starting with a coarse wood rasp to grind off the major humps and bumps. Switch to wood files and seams as you become closer to the original form. Use flat or round rasps and files as appropriate. Finish shaping with fine 80 grit and 120 grit sandpaper so the profiles of this repair and adjoining sound wood match.

Wipe off any dust. Prime the mend and adjoining sound wood with one coat of alkyd primer. Allow to dry overnight. Apply another coat of alkyd primer followed by 2 coats of acrylic finish paint that matches the original color.

See related

How to Fix Color Issues With Grout

Grout discoloration can occur when you add too much water to powdered grout throughout the first tile installation. Improper cleaning of grout haze in the surface of the floor or wall, or even failing to let the grout cure for the amount of time indicated by the manufacturer, can also result in uneven grout colour. Removing the original sealant and resealing using a color-enhancing grout and tile sealer can help darken the esophagus by one colour. Applying a knitted grout tint can help correct or change uneven grout colour. A lacquer thinner can lighten grout and help disguise uneven color.

Darkening Grout using Color-Enhancing Sealer

Vacuum a tile flooring to remove any loose dirt. Clean floor and wall tile having an all-purpose cleaner and allow the surface to dry.

Mix a tile and grout stripper with water based on the manufacturer’s direction. Liberally apply the stripper to the wall using a sponge to the floor with a mop.

Allow the stripper rack for at least three minutes. Do not enable the stripper to dry on the floor or wall. Scrub the wall or floor with a nylon scrub brush to remove the old sealer.

Wash the surface with clean water. Allow the surface to dry.

Protect baseboards and adjoining flooring using plastic sheeting. Secure the sheeting with painter’s tape to keep it from going.

Apply a color-enhancing tile and grout sealer to the wall or floor with white terrycloth towels. Allow the sealer sit undisturbed for at least three minutes. Use a clean towel to wipe any excess sealer from the surface.

Wait 1 hour and apply another coat of colour enhancing sealer. Allow the newest sealer to cure for at least 12 hours before walking on the floor or permitting water to come into contact with the surface.

Acid Etching and Colour Tinting

Dilute acid etcher with water based on the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure that the acid etcher is designed for use with grout and your tile stuff. Do not use muriatic acid to etch the esophagus.

Pour the diluted etcher into a grout sealer applicator bottle equipped with a little roller tip. Put on the etcher to the grout lines. Allow the etcher sit around the grout to get at least one minute, but no more than implied by the manufacturer.

Scrub the grout line using a soft wire brush. Wash the surface with clean water and let it dry.

Shake a container of water-based grout tint to blend it. Move the tint into a squeeze bottle with a narrow tip opening up.

Apply a thick bead of tint across the grout line. Use an old toothbrush to spread the tint evenly over the combined using a back-and-fourth motion. Wait 1 hour to apply another coat of tint if needed.

Fill a plastic spray bottle with clean water. Mist the grout line after waiting at least one hour after the final tint application. Wait five minutes before cleaning any tint residue from the surface of the tile using water plus a fine-nylon scrub pad. Allow the tint to treat at least 24 hours.

Pour grout sealer into an applicator bottle equipped with a brush tip. Use the sealer straight to the grout line.

Wait at least five minutes before wiping off any excess grout sealer using a clean towel. Apply additional coats of sealer until the grout no longer absorbs the sealer.

Allow the grout to cure for one hour. Wipe any sealer residue from the surface of the tile using a sponge and clean water. Allow the sealer to cure for at least 12 hours prior to coming into contact with the surface.

Stripper and Lacquer Thinner

Pour a gel-based stripper into a squeeze bottle with a narrow tip opening up. Use the stripper to the grout lines.

Wait at least two minutes to get blisters to appear along the grout line. Wipe the stripper in the grout lines with wet rags.

Implement lacquer thinner liberally using a little paintbrush to the grout lines. The thinner can help lighten the colour and remove any extra stains. Use absorbent rags to blot the excess thinner. Allow the surface to dry for at least 24 hours

Spread the rags on a level surface outside to dry thoroughly. Do not abandon them wadded up or in a pile as the rags could spontaneously combust. Place the dry rags in sealable food storage bags and dispose of them.

Protect baseboards and adjoining flooring using plastic sheeting. Secure the sheeting with painter’s tape to keep it from going.

Apply a color-enhancing tile and grout sealer to the wall or floor with white terrycloth towels. Allow the sealer sit undisturbed for at least three minutes. Use a clean towel to wipe any excess sealer from the surface.

Wait 1 hour and apply another coat of color-enhancing sealer. Allow the newest sealer to cure for at least 12 hours before walking on the floor or permitting water to come into contact with the surface.

See related

Are Poppy Flowers Perennials?

Not all poppies are perennials. A poppy can be any member of the genus Papaver, which comprises about 70 species of annuals, perennials and biennial plants. All are native to temperate zones of earth. Many have four petals, often crinkled, resembling tissue paper or pleated fabric. Poppies also occasionally have distinctive globe-shaped seed capsules. Other members of the larger Papaveraceae family, such as Meconopsis, are commonly called poppies and may be perennial or biennial.

Perennial Poppies

Oriental poppies (Papaver orientale), growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, are clump forming perennials that bloom in early to mid summer. The leaves are toothed, big and rough looking. Many different varieties are available, with flower colors which range from pink, white and red colors, to purple. Some varieties, such as “Perry’s White” and “Choir Boy,” have dark purple or black blotches at the base of each petal. The petals can also be frilly or ruffled in look. After the blossoms die, the seed pods can be harvested and dried for indoor arrangements.

Yearly Poppies

Two well-known yearly poppies are the corn or Flanders poppy (Papaver rhoeas), hardy in USDA zones 3 through 11, and the opium poppy. (Papaver somniferum), hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8. Corn poppy grows to about two feet, with slender stems and rounded, pale green buds. The Shirley breed of corn poppies include pink, white, red, salmon or bi-colored blooms. Opium poppies bear gray-green leaves and single or double blooms in lots of the same colors as corn poppies, and purple.

Other Poppies

Other perennial members of the Papaveraceae family that are known as poppies comprise Meconopsis, a genus of tall perennials using four-petaled, crinkled blooms. Among the best known meconopsis is Himalayan blue poppy (Meconopsis betonicifolia), in USDA zones 7 through 8. Flowering in spring, greater celandine poppy (Chelidonium majus) rises in USDA zones 7 through 8, and also lesser celandine poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum), at USDA zones 4 through 9, are low whales, with yellow blossoms and lobed or pinate toothed leaves.


Poppies, both perennial and annual, prefer sunny places where the soil warms up rapidly in the spring. Clay soil should be amended with organic substance before sowing poppy seeds or planting poppy plants. Yearly poppies, such as the Shirley breed, are easy to grow from seed and have a tendency to self-seed liberally. Perennial poppies, like the oriental varieties, can be propagated from root cuttings, taken at the end of the growing season.

See related