The John Deere 102 is part of the 100 series of riding lawn mowers acceptable for use by homeowners with medium- to large-size lawns. Ownership of a John Deere 102 mower involves routine maintenance so the mower will probably continue to function as designed by the manufacturer. Included in the maintenance is altering the oil so the motor will remain properly lubricated. Knowing the oil ability is essential, because an excessive amount of oil will damage the motor.
Importance of Petroleum Capacity
The ideal quantity of oil in a John Deere 102 mower will supply just the perfect quantity of lubrication to allow the motor to function as designed. An excessive amount of oil or inadequate oil will have a negative influence on the internal areas of the mower engine. Too little oil will prevent proper lubrication of internal parts, leading to excess wear and tear. Too much oil will result in excessive air bubbles and also have a similar impact on the parts from a lack of proper lubrication. Over filling the mower with oil will also result in the oil burning in the cylinders as well as also the buildup of excessive carbon deposits.
The recommended capacity is the quantity of oil that the manufacturer specifies so the motor operates efficiently. The John Deere 102 mower includes a recommended oil capacity of 1.5 quarts. The manufacturer also recommends using SAE oil such as 5W-30, 10W-30 or even 15W-40, based on air temperature where you’ll use the mower. All three components are acceptable for use between zero and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with 10W-30 and 15W-40 providing protection at higher temperatures up to 105 and 122 degrees F, respectively.
Checking the Oil Level
The quantity of oil needed is determined in two ways. First, to add oil between changes, the dipstick will dictate the proper amount to include. Before checking the oil, then begin the John Deere mower and let it run for many minutes to circulate oil through the motor. Get the dipstick by unscrewing the oil fill cap in the oil fill tube. Wipe off the dipstick, and then reinsert it from the oil fill tube. Pull the dipstick out again to find an accurate oil level reading.
After checking the oil level, pour oil into the oil fill tube to bring the amount up to the full mark on the dipstick. Using a funnel inserted into the oil fill tube will assist in preventing unnecessary oil spills. Observing a comprehensive oil change, add the recommended amount of 1.5 quarts of oil to the mower. Running the motor for a few minutes will help circulate the oil and supply an accurate reading on the oil dipstick.
Gas-fired furnace efficiency is expressed by means of a unit’s AFUE percentage. Short for annual fuel utilization efficiency, the AFUE rating provides an at-a-glance metric for comparing the creation of different makes and models of capitalism. AFUE represents the proportion of fuel consumed by means of a furnace that in fact contributes to useable heat versus the amount dropped in the combustion process. A normal efficiency furnace has an AFUE of 80 percent or less, while condensing furnaces with an AFUE of 90 percent or above would be considered high-efficiency models.
At a standard-efficiency 80 percent chimney, 20 percent of the heat energy contained in the gas is exhausted up the furnace vent. A condensing furnace with an AFUE of 90 percent or above features a secondary heat exchanger to recover that lost energy. Combustion gases are diverted to your condensing phase and heat released as the gases condense to water is pulled by the secondary exchanger. This fosters the furnace AFUE percent and lowers operating costs.
Variable-Speed ECM Blower
Standard furnaces incorporate conventional single-speed, on/off blower motors. These units produce full blower output when decorated and consume about 500 watts of electricity. The abrupt Sliding cycles of a standard compressor cause marked temperature fluctuations in living spaces. Because full-blast air circulation is not required to maintain temperatures after a house is fully warmed, single-speed operation also consumes excess electricity. Instead of constantly cycling off and on, electronically commutated blower motors called ECM units installed at high-efficiency furnaces are programmed to operate at a selection of speeds keyed to the home’s heating load. These blowers run nearly continuously but at varying, lower output to get rid of on/off temperature swings. In turn, they heat the house more consistently. Because ECM technology consumes only about 80 watts, energy savings are substantial compared to conventional blowers.
The gas burner in 80 percent binder runs at full output when operating. In moderate climates, total burner output is necessary only on the coldest days. The remainder of the time it’s an energy-waster. A 90 percent chimney incorporates multistage burners that sense the heating demands of the home and automatically default to a lower, energy-conserving output signal when conditions allow. This lowers operating costs, conserves resources and reduces carbon dioxide emissions.
A normal efficiency furnace draws air for the burner flame from the property’s interior. This dries out the normal humidity in household air and contributes to winter dry-air syndromes like scratchy skin, sore throat and static power surges. It could also pose a health hazard from carbon monoxide in case a backdraft condition grows that shoves combustion gases back into living spaces instead of up the exhaust vent. A 90 percent chimney features a combustion chamber that’s completely sealed in the house. Combustion air is drawn through an inlet pipe routed to the outdoors, and gases are exhausted through another pipe. Backdrafting hazards are eliminated and household humidity is maintained in the comfortable range.
Whether your time from the hot tub is therapeutic or recreational, having your own health club is a luxury you may get used to. Homeowners sometimes shy away from buying a hot tub, however, fearing that its upkeep isn’t going to be easy. Luckily, establishing a new hot tub and maintaining the right balance of chemicals in the water doesn’t require a science degree. Most tubs require only weekly care once established, and can add both value and enjoyment to your home. Spa test kits make this care easier by providing all you need to measure and understand the substance and alkalinity amounts of your spa’s water, making it easy to determine any adjustments you want to make.
Fill the spa with water and boost the water temperature until it reaches 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Insert an enzyme-based water clarifier to the water together with 2 ounces of stain and scale control substances each 500 gallons of water.
Assess the water’s total alkalinity before quantifying or adjusting your pH levels; include alkalinity increasing or decreasing substances, as required, to achieve an alkalinity between 100 and 150 ppm. Add 1 oz of alkaline adjusting chemicals at one time and allow the water to cycle for 30 minutes before retesting. Notice that whole alkalinity and pH aren’t exactly the exact same thing, although they are associated. If your spa’s total alkalinity readings are from the acceptable range it will be rather difficult to control the tub’s pH levels.
Test the pH level of the water with the pH test strips as part of your spa water test kit. The desired pH is between 7.2 and 8.2. If your pH falls outside this range, add a pH increasing or diminishing chemical half an ounce at a time, again waiting 30 minutes before examining the pH level again.
Choose a chlorine or bromine water sanitizer and add it to the health club. Add liquid or chlorine bromine directly to the water, or place bromine pills to the floating dispenser system. Wait 30 minutes and then test the water, adding additional bromine or chlorine one-half ounce at a time until the amount of free bromine and chlorine from the water is between 3 and 5 ppm. Whatever sanitizer you choose, follow its inclusion to the hot tub with a potassium monopersulfate health club shock treatment.
Test the spa water once a week to determine pH and alkalinity, and adapt them as required. Examine the amount of sanitizer in the water also, and adapt as required to maintain 3 to 5 ppm of free bromine or chlorine. If you don’t have an ozonator on your hot tub, you might have to put in a bit of stain and scale control to the water every week also. Add 2 ounces of water clarifier in case your spa water is muddy.