How Do I Prune a Race?

Rushes (Juncus spp.) Tend to grow in moist or wet soil in areas with complete sun. Common rush (Juncus effusus) and also propagating rush (Juncus patens), both of which develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, are sometimes grown as ornamental plants but they can become invasive in some areas. Rushes need periodic pruning to look their very best.

Pruning Needs

Rushes stay evergreen in mild climates where temperatures rarely dip below freezing. The plants form clumps of erect green stems. Common rush flowers in midsummer, while spreading rush may blossom anytime from late spring through late summer. When the plants go completely dormant for winter, the stems will yellow and then turn brown in late fall or early winter. Plants that go dormant require complete pruning every year, while those that remain green only need a light trim.

The Right Tools

Pruning shears and rubber gloves will take care of any pruning requirements. Shears are only necessary once the rush requires a complete cutting back. Prior to using the shears, wipe the blades using isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then wash them each time you move to the another plant. Although rush stems are not annoying and the stems of common rush are soft, you must wear gloves for light annual pruning because the rubber gloves hold the rush leaf much better. Use complete rubber gloves or cloth gardening gloves with latex, nitrile or rubber finger and palm pads.

A Light Trim

Individual stems inside a clump of evergreen rush die annually, while the main clump stays healthy and green. In late summer, remove the dead material to enhance the clump’s appearance. Put on the rubber gloves and comb through the leaf together with your fingers, gently pulling on the stems. The gloves will grip the dead stems, which easily pull free from the foundation of the plant. You can repeat this at any moment during the summer and spring growing season if there are a large number of dead stems combined in with the dwelling.

Rejuvenation Time

In locations where hurry dies back each winter, cut the whole clump with disinfected shears in late winter or early spring. Evergreen clumps only have to be cut every three or four years in late winter, or when they start to look sparse and ragged. Cut all the leaf stems right back to a 1 inch tall, removing and disposing of the dead foliage. New growth will emerge in the base of the plant when growth resumes in spring.

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Issue of Hydroponic Cucumbers

Hydroponic culture involves growing plants in nutrient solutions, without using artificial substrates like rockwool, peat or sand to give support for root development. Cucumbers (Cucumis sativa) grow well and have few difficulties under house gardening hydroponic conditions. They are a common business greenhouse hydroponic crop worldwide. Cucumbers are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, though they are usually grown as annuals.

Substrate Choice

Choosing a substrate isn’t difficult. Cucumbers grow acceptably in almost every substrate accessible to hydroponics, besides being able to grow in just nutrient solution. However, studies have indicated that hydroponic cucumbers are more sensitive to drought stress when grown on polyurethane foam rather than rockwool.


Hydroponics pro Dr. Howard Resh suggests that dwelling growers utilize general hydroponic formulations rather than creating a specific formulation, which can be harder. Easily obtainable non-specific formulations still give satisfactory production.Avoid problems by using hydroponic fertilizers rather than general-purpose fertilizers. According to B. A. Kratsky of the University of Hawaii, hydroponic fertilizers contain proper amounts of nutrients and also help stabilize the nutrient solution’s acidity and alkalinity. He proposes adding 1/2 pound of a hydroponic fertilizer which has an N-P-K ratio of 10-8-22, plus 2 ounces of magnesium sulfate to ten gallons of water. An alternative mixture utilizes 3 ounces of a 3-16-36 hydroponic fertilizer, 3 oz of soluble level potassium nitrate and 2 ounces of magnesium sulfate.

Cucumber Varieties

Home gardeners can grow most types of cucumber hydroponically. Consider interesting cultivars like lemon cucumbers, apple cucumbers, Lebanese cucumbers, and the newer, little, sweet Beit Alpha cucumbers. A problem with old, open-pollinated cucumber varieties is the fruit can get bitter if left too long on the vine before you choose it or when the plant gets stressed. To duplicate commercially grown hydroponic antioxidants, develop hybrid that are parthenocarpic — producing seedless fruit without fertilization — and thin-skinned, like “European” and “Long English,” also sometimes called Dutch-type cucumbers. These are more difficult to grow because they need continuous, careful training and pruning to grow and produce well.

Temperature and Light

Hydroponic cucumbers need high to medium light levels and warm temperatures, so growing difficulties can happen during cloudy or cool weather. Dutch-type Herbs need temperatures between 60 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit.Good growth takes place when daytime temperatures are between 75 to 80 degrees F and night temperatures don’t fall below 65 degrees F. Beit Alpha cucumbers have a larger temperature range, tolerating temperatures between 50 and 100 degrees F. If you don’t have a greenhouse with temperature and light control, grow hydroponic cucumbers throughout the summer when appropriate conditions occur.

Plant Size

A downside to hydroponic cucumbers is the fact that most are big plants. Space hydroponic growing containers so cucumbers don’t crowd each other. In restricted distance, trellis the plants or grow bush-type cultivars. In commercial greenhouses of Dutch-type cucumbers, growers stretch a cable over the row of cucumbers and dangle lengths of twine to the top of the growing containers, pruning and shaping the vine on the twine and cable.

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4 Gorgeous Garden Appears for a Narrow Planting Strip

The savviest home gardener can fight to see the possibility in a narrow planting strip, and also when that pocket garden is on the outside of this fence, is it even worth bothering about? The challenges are many: difficult to water, reflected heat from the sidewalk, careless feet and often poor soil.

Yet these perimeter plantings can act as a picture frame for the interior garden and home beyond. When you examine how these architects and designers treated their pocket gardens, you could be tempted to rethink the positioning of your own border fence just to take advantage of the unique design opportunity.

Denise Dering Layout

1. A Romantic Border

A classic white picket fence festooned with fragrant roses — what can be more romantic? The beauty of the one is that passersby may enjoy the flowers, because they’re implanted on the outside of the fence.

Key design features:
Restraint in the colour and plantsRepetition of colors and plants down the whole borderGaining height by using the fence to support climbing rosesColor notes:
A restrained palette of pink and blue is accented with chartreuse.The deeper shades of purple provide depth, ensuring that this combination will still turn heads even in summer time. Plant selection:
Climbing ‘Mary Rose’ offers height and fragrance.Billowing mounds of golden creeping Jenny(Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’) and May Night salvia (Salvia nemorosa ‘May Night’) type the decrease tier.These perennials are tolerant of water, inadequate soil and warm sun.

John Lum Architecture, Inc.. AIA

2. A Contemporary Home

The strong geometric lines of contemporary architecture call to get a foliage-focused planting, and this narrow roadside border delivers.

Key design features:
Restraint in colour and plant varietyLinear planting that echoes the flat lines of the home’s siding and fenceEmphasis on foliage over flowersColor note:
Muted earth tonesPlant choice:
Grasses and succulents are suitable for contemporary landscape design, as they rely upon their strong form instead of colorful blooms.These plants require minimal water and maintenance.The grasses add a bright note to the dark stained fence panels.

Le jardinet

3. An Entry That Establishes a Theme

A garden entry should create a feeling of anticipation, setting the scene for what is beyond. Plantings on the road side of the lattice fence do that.

Key design features:
An intriguing blend of textures and heights makes this tiny planting pocket look much larger than it actually is.Several of those plants may also be glimpsed within the primary garden. Color note:
Subdued tones of tan and pink permit the eye to move through the garden entrance. Plant choice:
This can be a particularly hot, dry border, so these plants are chosen due to their tenacity. Mexican feather grass (Stipa tenuissima), feather reed grass(Calamgrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’)and sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ (Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’) provide long-term interest.More on this Fantastic garden plant combination

Le jardinet

4. Planting Strips That Link Multiple Homes

Planned communities such as this one in Kirkland, Washington, have their own challenges, not the least of which is abiding by homeowners association regulations.

These planting strips permit identity while maintaining a cohesive design.

Key design features:
A narrow planting strip adjacent to the sidewalk is located beyond each homeowner’s split-rail fence.Several plants have been replicated through all the gardens, while there’s still space for some unique choices. Shade note:
Shades of blue, green and lavender are replicated throughout. Plant choice:
All the plants are lower compared to the elevation of this split-rail fence; allowing the fence to be glimpsed the whole sidewalk gives the illusion of a constant border.Each plant typically has a mounding habit, creating a feeling of uniformity.Lavender(Lavandula spp)and sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ (Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’) are implanted throughout these pocket gardens as well as in the adjacent communal garden areas. Bronze-colored coral bells (Heuchera hyb.) And daylilies (Hemerocallis spp) are also used. More:
Guides to Flowers | Give Curb Appeal a Self-Serving Twist



Read more home design photographs

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Expert Pruning Secrets for Exquisite Roses

After the danger of frost has passed, struck on the garden armed on your toughest garments and sharpened pruners to your yearly job of cutting back the roses. While gardeners may share different insights on the craft of rose pruning, 1 thing is sure: Even though roses’ winter dormancy stays, it’s time to prune, ensuring a prolific bloom and wholesome plants in summer and spring.

Cynthia Chuang, president of the Santa Clara County Rose Society at California and an ardent rosarian since 1994, believes this routine crucial to the health of her award-winning roses. The majority of her January days are spent outdoors, pruning and pruning her 200 roses. And each May the area and she love the bounty.

The New York Botanical Garden

Why prune? Pruning is regenerative. It stimulates new growth and will enhance and start up the form and form of the plants, Chuang says. Additionally, it eliminates dying or diseased portions that can damage the overall health of a backyard. Roses are sturdy and pliable, and will be fitter plants because of it. As you may not prune absolutely every time, it’s always preferable to prune than not to prune.

When to prune. Prune roses throughout their dormancy, before they ship out new growth. In moderate climates, this means mid-December through February. In more extreme climates, wait until the final danger of frost has passed. Otherwise you run the risk of damaging canes.

Revealed: Hybrid tea rose Rosa ‘Gemini’

Tools and equipment. Chuang spends roughly 20 minutes pruning every tree. Be sure that you’re comfortable and well equipped. You want to enjoy the time you spend outside in preparation for spring.
High-quality rose pruners (sharpen often; Chuang applies WD-40 weekly)Loppers (for larger-diameter canes)Pruning saw (for older canes and canes too large for loppers)Scissors (for detail work)Heavy-duty glovesEye protectionA long-sleeve shirt and pants made of a sturdy materialKnee pads or bench (discretionary)Pruner holster (optional)Hint: Sanitize instruments with rubbing alcohol after contact with diseased plants.

Here Chuang has pruned 1/4 inch over a thick, healthy and outward-growing cane. The cut is vented in the path of expansion and will encourage an open, rounded plant.

Create the cut. Rosarians may disagree on how much to prune, when to prune and what to prune, but they agree that the cut itself is important in promoting improved wellbeing.
Cut 1/4 inch over an outward-facing bud eye. Locate an outward-facing bud eye onto a thick, healthy cane. A bud eye happens just above the junction of a leaf (Chuang suggests five-leaflet leaves) and the cane — or at a twisted eye. The twisted eye is really where a leaf used to be and looks like a swelling band. Leaving the leaves on the bush before the conclusion of pruning makes it easier to spot where to cut. The cut indicates the bush to ship water and nutrients to that part of the bush. New growth will emerge in the bud eye at the direction of the cut. Cut at a 45-degree angle with the management of foliage growth, away in the bud eye. This is the direction where the new growth will emerge, so you’ll be promoting an open and outward-facing shrub. The angle also directs water and sap away in the bud eye, and naturally seals the cut. (Some rosarians indicate sealing cuts wider than a pen with a sealant like Elmer’s Glue to prevent borers.)

Chuang’s husband, Chi Ning Liu, dismisses a woody, fundamental cane during its origin. This enables younger, healthier canes to flourish and opens up the middle of this rosebush, promoting circulation and airflow.

How to Prune Roses

While expert demonstrations, extensive reading and preparation are helpful preparation for pruning, nothing educates you enjoy hands-on experience. You may prune too much or too small, but roses are resilient, and they’ll grow back.

Leave healthy, important canes. First, cut off dead or dying canes to their source. Get in there with the saw if necessary, says Chuang. The sure sign of a wholesome cane is a rich green bark and a strong white core. Older rosebushes can get woody, so pick and choose the canes that you would love to maintain. The American Rose Society proposes leaving four or five big canes for hybrid teas and grandifloras; more for floribunas. Cut off dying canes, even though healthy canes shoot off them.

That you want to ensure a healthy rose plant, over all. Then you want to think about shape. Chuang says she will cut canes smaller than the diameter of her pinkie finger. New growth will be thinner than its source, so thin stems will produce even thinner, weaker stalks, not able to support the weight of this rose.

Hint: If you cut healthy canes off, put the stem in the ground and stake it. The stem can sprout roots and form a secondary plant.

Remove suckers. Lots of roses are grafted onto a root stem of another rose type. Under the joint (bud marriage) is the root stalk, and over is the rose variety you’re growing.

Every once in a while you will find a vigorous straggler growing right from the root stalk — those are suckers. Suckers have different leaves and a different form compared to the bush and need to get yanked in the base as soon as possible. The rose bush will waste precious energy onto the undesirable sucker.

Hint: When pruning, keep an eye out for Y-branches. Chuang uses these as spacers between stalks that are near crossing as a guide for receptive expansion (see next photograph).

A spacer opens up the base of this plant

Maintain an open form. Whilst pruning, think about the final form of your rosebush within an upright, open hand or vase. You need canes to radiate up and out of the middle, ensuring airflow and circulation, and preventing mildew and disease.

Canes that cross the middle of the plant or cross a second, healthy cane ought to be pruned. Thin out parts of the plant that have become overly dense, all of the while recalling the pinkie rule as well as the outward-facing rule. This is your chance to guide the form of your plant.

If a lot of stems arise in the same portion of the cane (Chuang states three or even longer), or when you see too many pops and previous cuts in the cane, cut them back again.

Avoid having a lot of this rosebush in the colour — even its colour. Ideally, plant rose bushes 3 to 4 feet apart. Think about sunlight pattern when trimming; if you need to decide between keeping among two canes, cut on the one that will spend more time at the colour.

Cut one off or one-fourth off the surface. While there is not a steadfast rule, Chuang states she aims to cut off a third to a fourth of a bush general height when trimming.

She says that she often sees roses cut too short, which may inhibit the bush’s capacity to regenerate or regenerate, since a lot of its energy was removed. Alternately, if you prune too small, the plant won’t rejuvenate, and you’ll get a spreading, unkempt plant that won’t produce also.

Strip leaves once you prune. Some rosarians strip renders before pruning, but Chuang says leaving them till after pruning makes it easier to identify the path of expansion when making your cuts. Removing leaves eliminates pests or diseases that may be growing on the plant. If you notice mould or rust after in the year, simply strip the leaves to avoid spreading.

Revealed: Hybrid tea rose Rosa ‘Barbra Streisand’ before pruning (left) and after (right)

Clean up. Remove all fallen leaves and surrounding plant debris. Rose debris is typically not composted, as it does not break down quickly, and residual disease and fungus can still live on the leaves. Discard the debris.

Things to Do After Pruning

Spray. Chuang says two sprays after pruning are crucial to a wholesome plant over winter and into spring. Spray the canes greatly all of the way to the floor and even the surrounding ground. Spray in the top down and let the spray blanket the tree.
Employ a dormancy spray when you are going to have three or more days without rain and at least 24 hours without freezing temperatures. Dormancy oil is a horticultural oil that smothers pest eggs that can survive on last year’s leaves, canes and the surrounding soil. Follow the directions on the package. While it’s not essential to spray immediately after pruning, the sooner you do, the sooner you will remove potential pests.One week after, apply a combination of dormancy sulfur and oil. Fungus spores will be smothered by the sulfur. Fertilize 1 month afterwards. Chuang puts a ring of a fertilizer blend around the bottom of every bush, comprising:
Alfalfa pellets3/4 cup slow-release fertilizer4 to five cups chicken manureWater well after fertilizing.

The first blossoms emerge in Chuang’s backyard in mid-April, with the huge show coming in mid-May. If you are still lightly prune through the year, Chuang states, you can expect up to five repeat blossoms per rose a year, depending on variety.

Lenkin Design Inc: Landscape and Garden Design

Growing Sally Holmes Rose

Tips for Particular Rose Types:
Climbers: Bend and tie the canes, arching slightly below horizontal, during dormancy. This will produce prolific blooms. Adhere to the pinkie rule and don’t cut back the key canes if they’re still generating. Old garden roses: If they are single-blooming species, then prune after blooming. Repeat-blooming roses can be pruned similarly to contemporary roses but more lightly. Mini roses: Clean up the inside, creating an open, radiating tree to promote good airflow and circulation. The stem-diameter rule doesn’t apply, but remove any thin, spindly stems. More: Things to Do On Your Garden Now

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The Underdog Color That Fits Any Backyard

Imagine you could only select 1 color (besides green) to enhance your garden. I’d want to add gray. Now, that might sound crazy considering the possible rainbow of hues, but gray is the best complement in almost any garden. This silvery tone works beautifully with green, and there is a huge assortment of plants with gray foliage to choose from. Restrict yourself to a single bloom color and your garden might be very boring indeed. Add layers of green and gray, and your garden will be interesting all year.

Genevieve Schmidt

If I could have only three colors in my garden, I would incorporate an orange or a red into the mixture of green and gray. This orange-red color lies round the color wheel out of this steel blue-gray, making both of those colours stick out.

Debora carl landscape layout

Best Colours With Gray Plants

All colors of orange work well with grays and blue-grays, including this yellowish orange. Consider putting a photo of gray everywhere you would like an orange-colored blossom to glow. You’ll be surprised by the comparison.

Donna Lynn – Landscape Designer

Vivacious magenta is just another classic pairing with gray. The 2 colours bring out each other’s blue tones.

Wake Up Your Garden With Magenta Magnificence

Timothy Sheehan, ASLA

Lighter pinks, colors of maroon, aubergine and even lipstick red are also great pairings with gray.

Donna Lynn – Landscape Designer

Consider using grey against aluminum accents. The two metallic tones complement one another and give a cool and refined look to any room. Slightly aged aluminum paired with gray plants is one of my absolute preferred mixes in the garden.

SP Gardens – Susanna Pagan Landscape Design

Designing a Garden With Gray Foliage

Gray provides a nice contrast and grounds bigger plants when it’s set around the foundation of a green tree or tree. A second layer of gray in a slightly different colour adds more texture and thickness.

CLK Construction

In precisely the same fashion, a foundation of gray encircling a small tree divides a sea of green here. The comparison draws the eye instantly to the focal point of this planting.

Colors Of Green Landscape Architecture

Consider using gray as an edging plant to place off bigger yellow-green plants. The comparison makes a specified line and lifts up the eye into the focal-point plant.

Colors Of Green Landscape Architecture

Great Gray Plants

Lamb’s ear is a prolific, spreading bear of a plant, but I still love it for its gray tones. Despite its soft, fuzzy leaves and ability to flourish in harsh locales, the color is the very best aspect of this plant.

Stout Design-Build

Consider using mounds of H’s ear to break up banks of green along a walkway, or even try making a pathway completely from H’s ear. Can you imagine how wonderful that would feel in your feet? Watch out when they bloom, however — the bees love them too.

Grays are fabulous for a shady garden, particularly in lighter colour. A painted fern or gray-leaf astilbe will light up a shady spot in your garden.

Glenna Partridge Garden Design

Whether you’re adding a tiny Sea Holly to cheer up a cottage garden, brightening up shady corners with silver standouts or accenting a path with gray foliage, then this subtle hue can make a giant effect.

Working in the background, it sets greens in relief from one another, brings out trendy tones in various colours and serves as a visually interesting component of the garden even when nothing is in bloom.

I can’t say enough about the advantages of a couple shades of gray in your garden. Perhaps you could even locate 50. Wouldn’t that make for a garden?

More: 6 Beautiful Silver-Leaf Plants

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Bohemian Cottage and Vegetable Garden

Erin Waldman is not afraid of color. Her cheerful purple garden shed bright orange living room and bold turquoise sack signify her bohemian spirit and ability to decorate from the center. Her fearlessness with color and DIY projects has afforded happy consequences as her home continues to evolve. Although her house stands out from her Cedar City, Utah, community, her neighbours have adopted her eclectic style and have just made her adore her house more.

in a Glance
Who lives here: Erin Waldman husband Lannie Achord, kid Addison, puppy quad and cats Norman and Charlie
Location: Cedar City, Utah
Size: 2,700 square feet; 5 bedrooms, 2 baths

Sarah Greenman

Waldman and her husband, Lannie Achord, are committed to sustainability and develop a variety of corn, beans, peas, root vegetables, raspberries, herbs, horseradish and heirloom tomatoes in their garden. Their daughter’s purple playhouse matches the rampant larkspur.

Sarah Greenman: What made you fall in love with this house?
Erin Waldman: We were looking for a little more space following the birth of the daughter. Our property agent took us to the “wrong side of the tracks” so to speak, but when I walked in I knew this was the house. It had a fantastic irrigated garden space that has been in great shape.

Sarah Greenman

Waldman and her daughter, Addison, maintain a chicken coop into their garden, which houses four laying hens. All of these were called by Addison: Beauty, PoopFeathers, Chickadee and Speed Racer.

Sarah Greenman

Addison assisted paint the doorway to her father’s toolshed, in which the family stores gardening gear and house construction materials.

Sarah Greenman

SG: Inform me about the art you display in your house.
The Klimt-like painting has been performed by an art student from New York as part of a design. My most recent splurge was the encaustic painting by Fiona Phillips to the lower left. The framed blue painting over it is a first by Randy Rasmussen, along with the mask above the mantel was performed by Kevin Copenhauer, a costume designer in the Utah Shakespeare Festival.

I have so many talented friends who generously give us their “throwaway pieces” The best thing you can do to help your house is befriend a lot of artists.

Sarah Greenman

SG: Who inspires your personal style?
My mother. We’re very similar in style, and a lot of the things which I have came from her. She’s quite eclectic. She inspired my love of antiques. She sees something she enjoys and will arrange a place around it.

Art (left to right): “My Petunia Can Lick Your Geranium,” by Dolores Padilla, insect artwork by Micah Thompson, New Orleans town scene by Colisha; paint colours: Humble Gold, Sherwin-Williams and Copper Penny, Ace

Sarah Greenman

SG: What’s the biggest design dilemma?
I would adore my kitchen to become less of a galley and somewhat broader. After we pulled out the cabinets and removed a coat cupboard from the front room, it left us with a lot of drywall work. A friend helped us with the walls, but we needed to go back a few decades later to fix it. We did most of the work ourselves and learned where to employ out: drywall and floors.

SG: What do you want to do with your house next?
we’ve been saving up for a tile backsplash in the kitchen. We’ve had the tile chosen out for two decades!

Sarah Greenman

A vintage swag lantern and boudoir painting put a silent and peaceful tone from the master bedroom.

SG: What’s your proudest homeowner second?
EW: My 75-year-old conservative neighbor came and told me she really enjoyed all the color in my walls.

Sarah Greenman

Waldman paired a vintage embroidered pillowcase with a new comforter from Anthropologie.

SG: Did you make major changes to your house if you moved in?
We had been fortunate to have five weeks from the time we took ownership of the house before we proceeded in. I would place my daughter to bed and come over and paint till 3 in the morning.

Paint color: Aquarium, Sherwin-Williams

Sarah Greenman

One of Waldman’s favorite DIY projects is the tile wall in her toilet. She utilized Interceramic ceramic tiles and produced a mosaic mix of blue and yellow. She also set up a solar tube in here to create more light in what was formerly a dim area.

Sarah Greenman

Outside, a whimsical bronze sculpture by Dolores Padilla is framed by hand-stacked stone columns and welcomes people to the front doorway.

SG: Where is your favourite place to shop for home products?
EW: I adore secondhand, consignment, thrift and antique stores. I don’t usually enjoy anything mass produced. My favourite shop is Recycled in Cedar City. I would like items to be original and nicely crafted.

Sarah Greenman

Wife, mom, homeowner and Montessori school instructor Erin Waldman takes some time to enjoy a quiet moment on her front porch in a retro patio chair together with the family dog Lightning. A container garden of potted plants, overseen with a sitting Buddha, perches at the edge of the front porch. Waldman offers the following guidance to other homeowners: “Do what seems great and makes you happy. You’re the 1 residing in it.”

c: Do you have an eclectic house with a garden that is successful? Discuss it with us!

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Higher Ground: 6 Spectacular Landscapes

We’ve toured some magnificent landscapes here in over the past couple of years. From a garden on a Greek island into a bocce ball court overlooking the Pacific Ocean, by a small front yard in the Hollywood Hills into a grand estate in the Berkshires, every one these landscapes wow. Each has a special relationship to the home, the property and the increased context. Get tips for planting period from six special properties.

Carolyn Chadwick

This magnificent Greek garden on the island of Paros was designed to look as if it had always been there.

Carolyn Chadwick

Purple, blue, white and pink flowers, for instance, tall African lily and pink society garlic are spread between the home and the ocean edge of the house.

Carolyn Chadwick

There’s nothing like saving the best for last; this is the view from the house across the gardens into the Aegean Sea.

See the rest of this landscape

At Edith Wharton’s former home, The Mount, there are many different moods created by the landscapes. The nearer they are to the home, the more formal they’re.

A stone staircase surrounded by ferns takes visitors in the wooded entry to the formal gardens.

A lengthy strand lined in linden trees joins the two formal gardens.

The secret garden has a more rustic aesthetic than its counterpart. It is sunken, utilizes boulders and retains a green and white color palette.

See more of The Mount’s landscape | Tour inside The Mount

Jeffrey Gordon Smith Landscape Architecture

This stunning property on California’s central coast takes full advantage of opinions of Morrow Bay. It straddles the line between manicured and untamed, with native plants and careful color choice linking built bits to the unbuilt landscape.

Jeffrey Gordon Smith Landscape Architecture

A system of meandering paths connects the home to the estuary literally and figuratively (in its colours and sinuousness), and the layout provides stains to sit in isolation and enjoy the view.

Jeffrey Gordon Smith Landscape Architecture

Boulders mimic the shapes of the hills in the distance.

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Blogger and house accessories programmer Cococozy has added lots of square feet into her living room by producing many areas to relax, do swim, visit, site, browse and nap in the front yard of her Hollywood Hills cabin.


Thick cushions, colorful throw pillows and a classy rug bring indoor layout relaxation out to the deck.


A huge dining table is a favourite spot for friends to gather on hot nights.

See the rest of this cozy front yard

Feldman Architecture, Inc..

These two cottages were designed to operate with the slope of a wooded Mill Valley, California, site.

Feldman Architecture, Inc..

Both studios, constructed instead of an attached addition onto the main house, tread lightly on the land, with a rooftop supplying the room to garden.

Know more about rooftop gardens and green roofs

Feldman Architecture, Inc..

The adventure of traveling from the main home to cabin was carefully considered; variables included slopes, substances, width and places to stop and enjoy the view.

See more of these cottages, including some peeks inside

Randy Thueme Design Inc. – Landscape Architecture

This house sits atop a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean in Aptos, California. A beautifully entry court provides a glimpse at the sea.

Randy Thueme Design Inc. – Landscape Architecture

As you round the corner, you find the bocce ball court in the foreground and the ocean beyond. There’s also.

Randy Thueme Design Inc. – Landscape Architecture

This big, troughlike fountain provides a visual boundary at the edge of this cliff.

See the rest of this landscape

More: Browse landscape design photos
Unusual Edible Gardens
Great Design Plant: Golden Creeping Jenny
Magical Garden Paths

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