The Width of Queen- and King-Size Mattresses

Its variants and A standard width differ based on manufacturer design and construction type. Take the time to measure your mattress that is future to help you decide whether a queen- or king-size mattress is ideal for you. Dealing with these dimensions helps you shop for the necklace dimensions for a polished look.

Queen Size

In Australia and North America, the standard queen-size mattress is 60 inches wide by 80 inches long. The California queen measures 60 inches wide, and is 5 inches longer than a queen. The expanded queen is 66 inches wide. The super queen measures 66 inches wide but is thinner. In Europe, the queen mattress is 63 inches wide by 79 inches long.

King Size

In Australia and North America, mattress that is Eastern or the king measures 76 inches wide by 80 inches long, or a max of 78 inches by 80 inches. By way of example, Having a spring mattress, the coil methods do not let split coils and vary. The California king measures 70 inches wide by 84 inches long, approximately 72 inches wide, maximum. The Grand king size is 80 inches wide. In the United Kingdom, the king mattress measures long, queen mattress that is somewhat like a North American standard; the king size measures 72 inches wide, or 12 inches wider than the king.

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The Oil Capacity for the John Deere 102 Mower

The John Deere 102 is part of the 100 series of riding lawn mowers acceptable for use by homeowners with medium- to large-size lawns. Ownership of a John Deere 102 mower involves routine maintenance so the mower will probably continue to function as designed by the manufacturer. Included in the maintenance is altering the oil so the motor will remain properly lubricated. Knowing the oil ability is essential, because an excessive amount of oil will damage the motor.

Importance of Petroleum Capacity

The ideal quantity of oil in a John Deere 102 mower will supply just the perfect quantity of lubrication to allow the motor to function as designed. An excessive amount of oil or inadequate oil will have a negative influence on the internal areas of the mower engine. Too little oil will prevent proper lubrication of internal parts, leading to excess wear and tear. Too much oil will result in excessive air bubbles and also have a similar impact on the parts from a lack of proper lubrication. Over filling the mower with oil will also result in the oil burning in the cylinders as well as also the buildup of excessive carbon deposits.

Recommended Capacity

The recommended capacity is the quantity of oil that the manufacturer specifies so the motor operates efficiently. The John Deere 102 mower includes a recommended oil capacity of 1.5 quarts. The manufacturer also recommends using SAE oil such as 5W-30, 10W-30 or even 15W-40, based on air temperature where you’ll use the mower. All three components are acceptable for use between zero and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with 10W-30 and 15W-40 providing protection at higher temperatures up to 105 and 122 degrees F, respectively.

Checking the Oil Level

The quantity of oil needed is determined in two ways. First, to add oil between changes, the dipstick will dictate the proper amount to include. Before checking the oil, then begin the John Deere mower and let it run for many minutes to circulate oil through the motor. Get the dipstick by unscrewing the oil fill cap in the oil fill tube. Wipe off the dipstick, and then reinsert it from the oil fill tube. Pull the dipstick out again to find an accurate oil level reading.

Adding Oil

After checking the oil level, pour oil into the oil fill tube to bring the amount up to the full mark on the dipstick. Using a funnel inserted into the oil fill tube will assist in preventing unnecessary oil spills. Observing a comprehensive oil change, add the recommended amount of 1.5 quarts of oil to the mower. Running the motor for a few minutes will help circulate the oil and supply an accurate reading on the oil dipstick.

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Difference Between an 80 & 90 Percent Furnace

Gas-fired furnace efficiency is expressed by means of a unit’s AFUE percentage. Short for annual fuel utilization efficiency, the AFUE rating provides an at-a-glance metric for comparing the creation of different makes and models of capitalism. AFUE represents the proportion of fuel consumed by means of a furnace that in fact contributes to useable heat versus the amount dropped in the combustion process. A normal efficiency furnace has an AFUE of 80 percent or less, while condensing furnaces with an AFUE of 90 percent or above would be considered high-efficiency models.

Condensing Technology

At a standard-efficiency 80 percent chimney, 20 percent of the heat energy contained in the gas is exhausted up the furnace vent. A condensing furnace with an AFUE of 90 percent or above features a secondary heat exchanger to recover that lost energy. Combustion gases are diverted to your condensing phase and heat released as the gases condense to water is pulled by the secondary exchanger. This fosters the furnace AFUE percent and lowers operating costs.

Variable-Speed ECM Blower

Standard furnaces incorporate conventional single-speed, on/off blower motors. These units produce full blower output when decorated and consume about 500 watts of electricity. The abrupt Sliding cycles of a standard compressor cause marked temperature fluctuations in living spaces. Because full-blast air circulation is not required to maintain temperatures after a house is fully warmed, single-speed operation also consumes excess electricity. Instead of constantly cycling off and on, electronically commutated blower motors called ECM units installed at high-efficiency furnaces are programmed to operate at a selection of speeds keyed to the home’s heating load. These blowers run nearly continuously but at varying, lower output to get rid of on/off temperature swings. In turn, they heat the house more consistently. Because ECM technology consumes only about 80 watts, energy savings are substantial compared to conventional blowers.

Multistage Burners

The gas burner in 80 percent binder runs at full output when operating. In moderate climates, total burner output is necessary only on the coldest days. The remainder of the time it’s an energy-waster. A 90 percent chimney incorporates multistage burners that sense the heating demands of the home and automatically default to a lower, energy-conserving output signal when conditions allow. This lowers operating costs, conserves resources and reduces carbon dioxide emissions.

Sealed Combustion

A normal efficiency furnace draws air for the burner flame from the property’s interior. This dries out the normal humidity in household air and contributes to winter dry-air syndromes like scratchy skin, sore throat and static power surges. It could also pose a health hazard from carbon monoxide in case a backdraft condition grows that shoves combustion gases back into living spaces instead of up the exhaust vent. A 90 percent chimney features a combustion chamber that’s completely sealed in the house. Combustion air is drawn through an inlet pipe routed to the outdoors, and gases are exhausted through another pipe. Backdrafting hazards are eliminated and household humidity is maintained in the comfortable range.

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How to Add Chemicals to your Hot Tub

Whether your time from the hot tub is therapeutic or recreational, having your own health club is a luxury you may get used to. Homeowners sometimes shy away from buying a hot tub, however, fearing that its upkeep isn’t going to be easy. Luckily, establishing a new hot tub and maintaining the right balance of chemicals in the water doesn’t require a science degree. Most tubs require only weekly care once established, and can add both value and enjoyment to your home. Spa test kits make this care easier by providing all you need to measure and understand the substance and alkalinity amounts of your spa’s water, making it easy to determine any adjustments you want to make.

Fill the spa with water and boost the water temperature until it reaches 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Insert an enzyme-based water clarifier to the water together with 2 ounces of stain and scale control substances each 500 gallons of water.

Assess the water’s total alkalinity before quantifying or adjusting your pH levels; include alkalinity increasing or decreasing substances, as required, to achieve an alkalinity between 100 and 150 ppm. Add 1 oz of alkaline adjusting chemicals at one time and allow the water to cycle for 30 minutes before retesting. Notice that whole alkalinity and pH aren’t exactly the exact same thing, although they are associated. If your spa’s total alkalinity readings are from the acceptable range it will be rather difficult to control the tub’s pH levels.

Test the pH level of the water with the pH test strips as part of your spa water test kit. The desired pH is between 7.2 and 8.2. If your pH falls outside this range, add a pH increasing or diminishing chemical half an ounce at a time, again waiting 30 minutes before examining the pH level again.

Choose a chlorine or bromine water sanitizer and add it to the health club. Add liquid or chlorine bromine directly to the water, or place bromine pills to the floating dispenser system. Wait 30 minutes and then test the water, adding additional bromine or chlorine one-half ounce at a time until the amount of free bromine and chlorine from the water is between 3 and 5 ppm. Whatever sanitizer you choose, follow its inclusion to the hot tub with a potassium monopersulfate health club shock treatment.

Test the spa water once a week to determine pH and alkalinity, and adapt them as required. Examine the amount of sanitizer in the water also, and adapt as required to maintain 3 to 5 ppm of free bromine or chlorine. If you don’t have an ozonator on your hot tub, you might have to put in a bit of stain and scale control to the water every week also. Add 2 ounces of water clarifier in case your spa water is muddy.

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How Many Cherry Tomato Plants Per Hanging Planter?

Hanging baskets make handy containers for vegetables and fruits, while adding style and color to a deck or patio. Not only are baskets overflowing with mini tomatoes attractive, they are easy to harvest, also. The number of cherry tomato crops you increase the basket is located in part on the type of cherry tomato you decide to grow.

Dwarf Varieties

Dwarf cherry tomato crops, such as “Micro Tom” that reaches a height of 6 to 8 inches, which can be expanded at a 4-inch pot with ease, which means you can grow four of those mini cherry tomato crops at a 20-inch hanging basket. Other dwarf cherry tomatoes, such as “Tumbling Tom” need slightly more space. Two or three can grow comfortably in precisely the same basket.

Determinate Cherry Tomatoes

Determinate cherry tomatoes grow to a predetermined dimensions and quit growing, making them a great option for a large hanging basket. Typically a couple of those cherry tomatoes, with a few herbs or brightly coloured flowers, fill a hanging basket. Planting yellow and red cherry tomatoes at precisely the same basket produces a bright display.

Indeterminate Cherry Tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes, such as “Sweet 100,” produce plenty of mini tomatoes on long rambling vines. These indeterminate tomatoes keep growing during the summer. 1 indeterminate cherry tomato plant will fill a hanging basket and then produce juicy ripe tomatoes for weeks.

Basket Size

Though some cherry tomatoes, such as “Micro Tom,” can be grown in a hanging basket with a diameter of 6 to 8 inches, others, like “Sweet 100,” need a hanging basket at least 16 to 20 inches in diameter. Standard 12-inch hanging pots offer enough space for dwarf cherry tomato crops, but don’t offer enough for large indeterminate plants.


Many gardeners prefer to add bright flowers, such as nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus), and aromatic herbs, such as oregano (Origanum vulgare), to their hanging baskets of strawberries. Remember that adding different plants with your cherry tomatoes reduces the number of tomato plants that the basket can support. As a rule, deep baskets can support more tomato crops than superficial baskets since they provide more space for the roots.

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What Vining Vegetables Not to Plant Together

Crisp green beans (Phaseolus coccineus L.), sweet peas (Pisum sativum), crunchy cucumbers (Cucumis sativa) and sweet tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) all grow on vines. You might not consider zucchini squash (Cucurbita pepoas) since a vine but following a long summer’s increase, the plant may be up to 6 ft long. To get the most from your garden, whether you live in a foggy coastal place or dry inland place, certain vines should not be implanted together for the best outcomes.

Disease Prone

You say to-mah-toe, ” I say po-tay-toe. However you pronounce it, both tomato and garlic are vines from the nightshade family. The leaves and vines are toxic. The fruit of this potato (Solanum tuberosum) is toxic as well. The edible portion is the underground tuber. These cousins should not be implanted together or even near each other because they are prone to similar diseases such as blight. If one becomes infected, the other will too, and you’ll get rid of both crops. You also need to rotate the planting area so neither plant is increased in exactly the exact same place for over 1 season in a row.

Different Seasons

English peas grab onto a trellis with tendrils, while green beans twine round the trellis. That might look as though they could develop with each other, making one trellis do the work of 2. The problem is that peas are cool-season vegetables while beans are warm-season. If you plant them at precisely the exact same time, another will not boom. The cool temperatures that peas like will cause the beans to decay instead of germinate. If you plant the peas when it is warm, they will sprout, but subsequently perish from the warmth.

Growth Pattern

Delicate vines such as green beans will not compete with vigorous, fast, large-leaved squashes such as pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo) if the beans and pumpkins are grown on the ground. The growth pattern of the beans is upward, while the pumpkins sprawl. The pumpkins will crowd out the beans. 1 way to get around this — and make the garden twice as productive — is to plant the beans at which they could climb upward such as about a corn stem (Zea mays). The squash may then clamber among the corn.


Growing a cucumber beside a melon will not make the cucumber sweeter or the melon less flavorful due to cross pollination. Those two do not cross pollinate. However, cucurbits of the very same species may pollinate each other. Pumpkins, gourds and zucchini are all of the same species and will cross pollinate. The fruit that includes the cross-pollinated seeds will probably be accurate to its own parent plant. The next generation may be different, true to parent or something halfway between.

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The way to Revitalize Wicker Chairs

Whether they are comfy old hand-me-downs or even dumpster-dive treasures, revitalized wicker or rattan chairs may look like new or better. From the cleaning into the mending to the color and cushions, provide your woven-reed chairs some special focus every now and then they will provide you years of fashionable comfort.

Cleaning Wicker

It’s alright to wipe down wicker with a solution of 1 tablespoon ammonia mixed with 1 gallon of warm water and a soft cloth for everyday cleaning, however once or twice a year provide your rattan chairs a comprehensive overhaul. Bring out the vacuum cleaner also, with the upholstery attachment, suction the overall surface and each nook and cranny. An old toothbrush can loosen caked dirt that is becoming lodged in the crevices. Simply take the chairs out to the lawn and use the garden hose to provide them a shower, then immediately dry them so that the reeds don’t become loose, having absorbent towels plus a few hours in the sun.

Mending Holes

With appropriate maintenance, wicker furniture can last for decades, but in the real world, injuries occur. If one of the chairs has a small damage, such as a broken or out-of-place reed, mend it. You can soften the reeds with a warm, damp cloth to bend and sprinkle them back into position. When there’s a broken reed or lost section, you can soak a replacement in water until it’s pliable enough to weave it in the chair’s design. Wood glue can secure the piece.

New Cushions

Replacing your wicker chairs’ seat or cushion fabric is most likely among the best methods to revitalize them. When you utilize the rattan set exterior, choose weather resistant fabric — it’s heavier than conventional material and treated to withstand fading. When the chairs are kept inside, use conventional, upholstery-grade fabric to update their appearance. You’re able to restuff the cushions for outdoor or indoor pieces if needed. When recovering an outdoor piece inspect the filler to be sure it isn’t moldy. If it’s seen better days, replace it. The old cushion cover can function as a template to produce new ones from fabric in a colour and style that rocks along with your decor, such as paisley or polka dots.

New Color

All materials fade overtime — inside or out — and washed-out color make furnishings look tired and old. A fresh coat of paint may bring them back to life and add a designer touch to the space they inhabit. Planning is the trick to a professional-looking paint job. Flaking paint, dust and grime needs to be eliminated prior to spray painting. Use any colour that suits your house and goes with the cushions, from crisp white to sage green to stunning black.

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Fun Facts About Persimmons

Persimmons (Diospyros spp.) Grow nicely in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. The trees may reach 25 feet tall and wide with drooping branches with 7-inch-long shiny green leaves. The brightly colored fruit is filled with beta-carotene and vitamins A and C. Some fun facts about persimmons make these fruits more interesting to grow and eat.


Persimmons originated in China, where over 2,000 different cultivars were developed. Eventually the tree spread into Korea and Japan. By the middle of the 1800s, the persimmon tree made the journey across the Pacific Ocean to California. The seeds came in 1856 with Commodore Perry from Japan, and entire trees were imported to California in 1870.


Persimmon flowers appear in the spring to one-year-old growth. Cream-colored flowers are female while male flowers are pink. Many persimmon trees are either male or female, but there are plants with both female and male blossoms. Several persimmon cultivars are parthenocarpic, which produces seedless fruit without pollination.

Two Main Types

Fuyu persimmons are a non-astringent selection, which is eaten fresh. This kind of persimmon stays fresh for up to three weeks when stored at room temperature. Hachiya persimmons are soft to the touch when ripe and are astringent, and they are used for cooking. This astringent variety only stays fresh for a few days.


Unripe Japanese persimmons are filled with tannin, which is used to brew sake and maintain wood in Japan. The little, non-edible fruit from wild persimmon trees in Japan are crushed and mixed with water. This solution is painted on paper to repel insects. This solution is also considered to give cloth moisture-repellent properties.


Persimmon fruit need curing before they are edible. Purdue University notes that in the Far East, persimmons are commonly covered with bamboo mats and left to chill in near freezing temperatures. Another method is to put the fruit in covered seams and smoke them with burning animal dung. For your little home grower, put the newly selected fruit in a sealed container for a couple of days with apples or bananas. The ethylene gas created by the bananas and apples cures the persimmons.

American Persimmon

The American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) is also known as possumwood. The little fruit produced by this tree is simply edible after exposure to a hard freeze in the fall. American Indians would dry and pick the wild persimmons, later baking the dried fruit into loaves of bread.

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Plants of the Pea Family With Showy Flowers

The pea family Fabaceae would be the beans, which comprise over 18,000 species of flowering plants. Members of the family have been located in every continent worldwide except for Antarctica. The main identification for pea family members is the frequent appearance to the seed pod, which is altered in various ways to allow the seeds to disperse. A number of these plants enrich the earth around their roots with the addition of nitrogen to the soil. Members of the plant family produce a variety of showy blossoms which range from butterfly-shaped into puffballs.


The pea family contains some very big plants reaching tree-like proportions. 1 example is the purple orchid tree (Bauhinia purpurea) using exotic orchid-like purple flowers blooming from the start of summer to the winter in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. This plant remains evergreen unless exposed to freezing temperatures, reaching 20 feet high with branches spreading 25 feet and covered in light green leaves. Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis) is a deciduous tree using reddish-pink blossoms in the spring before the circular green leaves appear. In USDA zones 7 through 10, this redbud tree reaches up to 16 feet tall and wide, attracting butterflies and birds into the yard. The leaves turn red in the autumn and reddish-purple seed pods develop after the flowers die back.


Shrubs are usually more compact than trees, but a few can achieve tree height. Several pea family member with showy flowers grow as shrubs. African scurf pea (Psoralea pinnata), in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, create green feathery leaves using lavender-violet and white flowers covering the bush in late spring. This 6- to 10-foot-tall shrub emits a grape soda aroma while in bloom. “Petite Butterflies” sweet pea shrubs (Polygala fruticosa “Petite Butterflies”) develop evergreen in USDA zones 9 through 10, reaching 3 feet tall and wide covered using gray-green leaves. The purplish-pink butterfly-shaped flowers last from spring through summer.


Pea family perennials climb during the warmer months before entering a period of dormancy during the winter. Blue false indigo (Baptisia australis) grows blue-green leaves and spikes of indigo-blue pea-shaped flowers from late spring through the first of summer. In USDA zones 3 through 9, this North American indigenous reaches 4 feet tall and wide. Crown vetch (Coronilla varia) sprawls along the ground reaching 12 inches tall and creeping 15 feet wide with feathery leaves 12 inches long composed of little leaflets. This summer bloomer is available in white, purple or pink in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 9.


Yearly members of the pea family behave enjoy the garden pea, completing their life cycle in one summer before dying. Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) develop in USDA zones 2 through 11, reaching 3 to 8 feet tall and spreading 2 to 3 feet with colorful flowers blooming from spring through summer. The highly aromatic flowers are available in blue, orange, pink, purple, red, purple and white. This yearly enjoys cooler weather and also creates ornamental seed pods. Tangier pea plants (Lathyrus tingitanus) use tendrils to climb up to 10 feet tall with stems covered with lacy green leaves and reddish-purple pea-like blooms during the summer. This heat-tolerant pea plant grows in USDA zones 2 through 11.

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How to compute Grass Seed Per Acre

A well-established and maintained yard leads to the general aesthetic of your home’s landscape. Preparing the site well and applying the appropriate amount of seed enables you to ensure that the bud grows in densely without purchasing and applying any more seed than is needed. Often, seeding rates are specified concerning pounds per 1,000 square foot; if you’re covering a huge area, you will need to convert the speed to pounds per acre.

Select the bud seed you will use to establish or overseed the turf area. The seeding rate varies depending on the cultivar or mix and is generally specified from the seed provider or on the bag of seed. As an instance, if you wish to plant a fresh Kentucky bluegrass lawn, the seeding rate is just 2 to 3 pounds of seed per 1,000 square foot. If you’re planting a tall fescue lawn, the suggested speed is 8 to 10 pounds per 1,000 square foot.

Convert the seeding rate for the selected grass cultivar or mix from pounds per 1,000 square feet to pounds per acre, if necessary. By way of instance, if the recommended seeding rate for a particular mix of grasses is 6 pounds per 1,000 square feet, then multiply 6 by 43.56 to get 261.36. Thus you’d need only over 261 pounds of seed for 1 acre.

Measure or estimate the dimensions of any non-turf areas in the landscape, then calculate their areas and include the square footage of all of the non-turf areas together.

Convert the square footage of any non-turf regions to acreage and subtract the non-turf areas from the acreage of the whole site. As an instance, if you’ve got a 1-acre lawn where the house, driveway, flower beds and other landscaping produce a combined area of 20,000 feet, divide this amount by 43,560 (the amount of square feet in an acre) and subtract this amount from 1 to determine the acreage of this planned landscaping is all about .54.

Calculate the amount of seed needed by multiplying the seeding rate in pounds per acre from the estimated acreages. As an instance, if the magnitude of this planned turf area is .54 acre, multiply this by the ascertained seeding rate per acre, like 261.36, to compute a total of 142 pounds of seed.

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