A freestanding bathroom sink, often referred to as a pedestal sink, which is a standalone unit that is ideal for half-baths or smaller bathrooms in which a vanity could be too large. With a freestanding bathroom sink, the plumbing that is normally hidden under the vanity is exposed, so chrome pipes are set up in place of PVC. It’s possible to put in a freestanding bathroom sink with the help of an assistant in a single day using some common plumbing gear.
Measure from the floor to the mounting brackets of this freestanding sink. Locate the stud behind the wall on every side of this roughed-in plumbing in the bathroom wall using a fireplace, and mark the studs. Then cut a 10-inch-tall part of masonry behind the sink between the centres of the joists centered vertically at the height of the mounting brackets with a utility knife.
Measure the distance between the studs and then cut a part of two-by-eight lumber in that distance using a circular saw. Insert the part of board and attach it to the studs using 3-inch wood screws embedded diagonally throughout the board and in the studs using a power drill.
Measure and cut a piece of 1/2-inch drywall to cover the installed brace and encompassing hole in the wall, and then attach the drywall with drywall screws. Fill the joints with joint compound, and employ drywall tape to the joints using a 3-inch putty knife. Apply additional joint compound over the tape and permit the compound to dry for 24 hours. Then sand the joint compound and feather a second layer of compound over the first using a 10-inch drywall knife. Allow the second layer of compound to dry, then sand, texture and paint the stain to match the surrounding wall.
Place the pedestal sink’s wall-mounting bracket over the wall and then brace in the height you decided earlier, and adjust the angle using a torpedo level. Fasten the bracket to the braced wall section using the bracket’s mounting screws.
Measure the distance horizontally from the mounting bracket on the back of the sink to the middle of this drain. Then align a chrome P-trap using the drain line from the wall so that the vertical coupling of this P-trap is centered at the drain’s distance from the wall. Mark the point on the drain point in which the PVC shoulder meets the elbow and then cut the PVC drain line at that stage using a hacksaw.
Turn off the water main to the house, and turn to a faucet elsewhere in the building to ease pressure. Then cut off the two copper supply lines in 2 inches from the wall using a tube cutter. Slide the wall flange, compression coupler and ferrule of a chrome compression shutoff valve over one of the pipes, then fit the end of the valve onto the pipe. Pull the ferrule to fulfill the nipple, then tighten the coupler to the nipple using an adjustable wrench. Push the flange from the wall to cover the rough-in in the drywall. Repeat the process using the next shutoff valve. Turn the water main and check the valves for leaks.
Remove the coupler nut and washers from a pop-up kit. Apply a bead of plumber’s putty around the drain flange, then set the drain into the sink. Press down to the flange to bench the flange to the drain hole, then place the seams onto the drain nipple at the order they were eliminated, and thread the coupler nut onto the nipple. Tighten using a large pair of slip-joint pliers. Wipe away any extra plumber’s putty.
Remove the mounting nuts from the base of the faucet, and place the base of the faucet onto the back of the sink via the mounting holes. Attach the mounting nuts to the nipples on the bottoms of their hot and cold inlets, and hand-tighten the nuts. Then adjust the position of the faucet and tighten the nuts using slip-joint pliers.
Put the sink onto the pedestal base. Attach the drain tailpiece to the drain nipple throughout the pedestal base, and tighten the joint using slip-joint pliers. Then assess the distance from the floor to the base of the P-trap already set up on the drain line. Install the lower half of this P-trap to the tailpiece from the pedestal sink in this height, and fasten the coupler using the slip-joint pliers.
Slide the end of this pop-up drain pole through the hole at the middle of the back of the sink, and link the pole to the extension by tightening the set screw onto the extension bracket. Then connect the extension to the lift pole using the slide spring. Examine the operation of this pop-up arm along with the stopper in the sink, and adjust the lift pole as needed to ensure proper operation.
Slide the sink and pedestal into position from the wall. Lift the sink slightly to fasten the mounting bracket on the back of the sink to the wall bracket. Combine the two halves of this P-trap and tighten the coupler using the slip-joint pliers.
Mount any floor bolts as required from the base of the pedestal to the floor, by predrilling holes and driving the lag bolts using the adjustable wrench. If no mounts are required, caulk around the base with silicone tub and tile caulk.
Wrap thread seal tape around the nipples of every water inlet valve 2 to 3 times. Measure the distance from the nipple to the hot water supply valve to the hot water inlet on the faucet. Cut a slice of chromed supply tube 1 inch longer than this distance. Add a coupler and ferrule to one end, then connect that end to the distribution valve using an adjustable wrench. Gently bend the tube so that it aligns with the base of the faucet inlet, then add a faucet coupler and ferrule to the end of the tube and then connect it to the faucet nipple. Repeat to your cold water feed.
Turn the two water supply inlets, then turn on the faucet and analyze the operation of this inlets, sink and drain lines.