Non-Leather Rose Garden Gloves

Maintaining your hands free and safe from harm is common sense in the backyard. Roses have thorns that sometimes have a yeasty fungus named Sophorix shenckii. If a gardener gets pricked by a thorn with fungus, it causes an infection that begins with redness, swelling and weeping ulcerations. This infection requires medical attention. While it’s far easier to avoid this harm by wearing gardening gloves, not everyone wishes to use leather gloves. Non-leather and vegan options exist to protect your hands while rose gardening.

Rubber Coated

A few garden gloves are made with flexible, breathable spandex fabric, then covered with rubber over the hands and palms. The rubber moves and bends freely with the gardener’s hands, but is thick enough to prevent pricks from thorns and brambles. The rubber also protects the hands and hand from creating blisters during constant movement work such as digging.

Vegan Garden Gloves

Vegan rose garden gloves are durable, breathable and machine-washable. They are treated with Teflon so they repel soil and water. The hands of the gloves are made with LiquiCell, which prevents blisters when digging, weed pulling or performing other repetitive activities that cause swelling.


Grubbers are fabric garden gloves dipped in nitrile. Nitrile is less allergenic than other rubber, including latex. The gloves protect hands from wet, muddy conditions in addition to from scrapes and thorns. The hands are reinforced, and nitrile has a strong grip for holding garden gear and not developing blisters.


Conventional leather rose garden gloves are long and cover the arms. This really is significant protection when reaching thick rose bushes. Not all vegan gloves come with extended sleeves; nevertheless, vegan pruning heels protect your arms and wrist while leaving the hands free. They adjust easily with a fabric fastener, and can slip over bare hands or garden gloves equally well.

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How to Mount a Trellis to Stucco Without Drilling

A trellis with a climbing vine may be used to pay for an exterior wall, including a stucco wall. If you drill into stucco to install the trellis, you could chip away bits of the stucco. In some cases, screws might be hard to impossible to install, or screwing into the wall could risk damaging pipes or wires installed on the wall. Alternatively, you may use construction adhesive to mount the trellis into stucco. The trellis should be mounted about 2 inches out from the wall to permit space for vines to weave in and out of the trellis.

Clean out the stucco thoroughly to remove all of the debris, using a power washer or mild detergent and a scrub brush. Permit the wall to dry thoroughly before mounting the trellis.

Screw two-by-fours into the rear of the trellis, using 3-inch wood screws and a power drill, if the trellis would break flat against the wall. Attach the trellis into the 4-inch side of their planks to depart a 2-inch gap between the trellis along with stucco wall.

Hold the trellis up against the stucco wall until you achieve the desired position. Mark the wall gently along the outside edges so it is easy to organize the trellis for setup. Be mindful of any parts of the trellis that come in direct contact with all the stucco wall. In the event that you had attach two-by-fours into the rear of the trellis, only the boards must come in contact with the wall.

Apply generous beads of heavy-duty building glue to the points of contact on the trellis, leaving approximately 1/2 inch from the edges free of adhesive. Construction adhesive is available in squeeze tubes or tubes that you use with a caulking gun in which you cut the tip, insert the tube at the caulking gun and squeeze the trigger to apply the building glue. If possible, use a construction adhesive for landscaping, especially designed to mount into masonry surfaces, and choose a material that sets quickly so no bracing is needed.

Line up the trellis with the marks onto the stucco wall, starting at the bottom of the wall, then slowly lift the trellis into position on the stucco wall. Do this immediately after applying construction adhesive to the trellis.

Press firmly on each of parts of the trellis that contain the construction adhesive to ensure good contact between the trellis along with stucco wall.

Apply even pressure to the trellis for approximately 30 seconds until the glue ties to the stucco. If you were not able to find a quick-holding construction adhesive product, the item might require considerably more time to place. You may push two-by-fours against the trellis as a brace, running diagonally in the trellis down to the ground.

Permit 24 hours up to approximately one week to get the construction adhesive to completely cure before training climbing vines to develop on the trellis. Pull gently on the trellis in several areas to ensure a strong hold; apply additional construction adhesive in the gaps between the trellis along with stucco as required to create a stronger bond in weak points.

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Furnace Pilot Light Troubleshooting

Any gas furnace uses a pilot light to trigger the burners to heat your home. The pilot light is a small flame that’s either lit manually and also stays burning around the clock or is attached electronically through an igniter once the machine kicks. Standard maintenance and troubleshooting are part of the maintenance on a chimney to guarantee the pilot light stays functioning.


The hint of the pilot light in which the gas comes out and ignites is a harbor for collecting soot, grime and grit over recent years. From time to time, this hint can get clogged with debris that blocks the flow of gas, leading to a pilot light that won’t stay lit. As a general rule, a toothbrush or a small, stiff brush is enough to wash the tip. If you would like to be thorough, turn off the gas for your chimney, completely remove the hint and soak it in degreasing solution, such as what is used to remove grime from stovetops. After the debris was removed, the pilot light should remain lit on its own. For best results, wash the pilot light every few months to prevent it from becoming clogged.

Flame Adjustment

Flame adjusters control the size of the pilot light’s flame. If the flame is too small, it won’t kick the burners. Not all furnaces have a fire adjuster. If yours does (refer to your owner’s manual), then it will be a small bolt or a small screw near the pilot light itself. In most cases, there should be a sticker or label near the pilot light that definitely details which direction to turn the screw to adjust the size of the fire. If in doubt, make small adjustments to the screw/bolt and examine the visible size of the fire while the pilot light is lit. Occasionally during routine cleaning, or because of vibration of the unit, this alteration can accidentally be turned down, leading to a flame that’s too tiny.


Your furnace requires fuel to keep the pilot light engaged along with the burners working. If there’s a leak, if there is no gas in the reservoir or the valve from the reservoir is turned away, gas will not arrive in the pilot light. Check to ensure your tank has lots of fuel, if applicable. Then, check to ensure that all valves along the supply line have been turned on. Finally, check for leaks. A visible smell of petrol is 1 indication, but if you are in doubt, coat any pipe connections with a combination of dish soap and water. If there are leaks, bubbles appear on the surface of the alternative. Leaks need to be repaired immediately to avoid potentially catastrophic outcomes.

Ignition Switch

If your furnace is an electronic prototype with an automatic ignition for the pilot light but it won’t mild, there may be an issue with the ignition. To ascertain this, turn off the thermostat. For best results, turn it off at the breaker box and wait a few minutes to turn everything back on. Occasionally this resets the machine. After you turn the device back on, then listen and watch to see whether the furnace kicks on and the ignition discharges. If your unit has a hot surface igniter, it should start to glow to prepare to ignite the burner. If none of these things occurs while electricity to the furnace is turned on, then there’s an electronic issue that has to be evaluated and repaired by a licensed professional.

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The way to Adjust a Lazy Susan Cabinet Pole

A lazy Susan is a rotating closet add for corner cabinets in a kitchen. The rotating shelves of a lazy Susan function nicely in this type of cabinet because the cabinet can be rather expansive with a small door opening, which makes it difficult to reach the recesses. A lazy Susan is made up of a few shelves that rotate around a center pole, which, if not correctly aligned, can prevent the doors from closing or the shelves from smoothly rotating. It is possible to correct a lazy Susan closet rod in a couple of minutes with a few hand tools.

Remove the items in the lazy Susan shelves. Remove the screws holding the cabinet door onto the cabinet frame using a screwdriver, and set aside the doorway.

Loosen the mounting screws holding each shelf into the rod using a screwdriver. Slide down the shelves the rod and permit them to rest on the ground of the cabinet.

Loosen the screw on the collar in the center of the rod, and slide the upper part of the rod down to the lower part. Lift each shelf above the end of the rod, and pull them out of the cabinet.

Expand the upper part of the rod until it aligns with the upper pivot inside the cabinet, and tighten the collar screw.

Hold a level against the face of the rod to confirm the rod for plumb. If the rod is not plumb, loosen and remove the screws that secure the upper pivot to the peak of the cabinet. Adjust the rod until it is plumb in every direction. Rotate the upper pivot 45 degrees on the rod and mark hole positions for the mounting screws.

Loosen the collar screw, lower the upper part of rod, and eliminate both the rod and the upper pivot from the cabinet.

Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole through each of the marked hole locations. Insert the upper dot and attach it into the cabinet using the mounting screws through the pilot holes.

Reinsert the closet rod, and extend the upper pole section to meet the upper pivot. Tighten the collar screw and check for plumb.

Lower the upper rod again, then replace the shelves above the rod. Expand the upper rod to the pivot, tighten the collar screw, then reposition the shelves and tighten the shelf screws.

Analyze the lazy Susan to make sure it correctly rotates within the cabinet. Replace the cabinet door, then replace the contents of the lazy Susan shelves.

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How to Install a Freestanding Bathroom Sink

A freestanding bathroom sink, often referred to as a pedestal sink, which is a standalone unit that is ideal for half-baths or smaller bathrooms in which a vanity could be too large. With a freestanding bathroom sink, the plumbing that is normally hidden under the vanity is exposed, so chrome pipes are set up in place of PVC. It’s possible to put in a freestanding bathroom sink with the help of an assistant in a single day using some common plumbing gear.

Measure from the floor to the mounting brackets of this freestanding sink. Locate the stud behind the wall on every side of this roughed-in plumbing in the bathroom wall using a fireplace, and mark the studs. Then cut a 10-inch-tall part of masonry behind the sink between the centres of the joists centered vertically at the height of the mounting brackets with a utility knife.

Measure the distance between the studs and then cut a part of two-by-eight lumber in that distance using a circular saw. Insert the part of board and attach it to the studs using 3-inch wood screws embedded diagonally throughout the board and in the studs using a power drill.

Measure and cut a piece of 1/2-inch drywall to cover the installed brace and encompassing hole in the wall, and then attach the drywall with drywall screws. Fill the joints with joint compound, and employ drywall tape to the joints using a 3-inch putty knife. Apply additional joint compound over the tape and permit the compound to dry for 24 hours. Then sand the joint compound and feather a second layer of compound over the first using a 10-inch drywall knife. Allow the second layer of compound to dry, then sand, texture and paint the stain to match the surrounding wall.

Place the pedestal sink’s wall-mounting bracket over the wall and then brace in the height you decided earlier, and adjust the angle using a torpedo level. Fasten the bracket to the braced wall section using the bracket’s mounting screws.

Measure the distance horizontally from the mounting bracket on the back of the sink to the middle of this drain. Then align a chrome P-trap using the drain line from the wall so that the vertical coupling of this P-trap is centered at the drain’s distance from the wall. Mark the point on the drain point in which the PVC shoulder meets the elbow and then cut the PVC drain line at that stage using a hacksaw.

Turn off the water main to the house, and turn to a faucet elsewhere in the building to ease pressure. Then cut off the two copper supply lines in 2 inches from the wall using a tube cutter. Slide the wall flange, compression coupler and ferrule of a chrome compression shutoff valve over one of the pipes, then fit the end of the valve onto the pipe. Pull the ferrule to fulfill the nipple, then tighten the coupler to the nipple using an adjustable wrench. Push the flange from the wall to cover the rough-in in the drywall. Repeat the process using the next shutoff valve. Turn the water main and check the valves for leaks.

Remove the coupler nut and washers from a pop-up kit. Apply a bead of plumber’s putty around the drain flange, then set the drain into the sink. Press down to the flange to bench the flange to the drain hole, then place the seams onto the drain nipple at the order they were eliminated, and thread the coupler nut onto the nipple. Tighten using a large pair of slip-joint pliers. Wipe away any extra plumber’s putty.

Remove the mounting nuts from the base of the faucet, and place the base of the faucet onto the back of the sink via the mounting holes. Attach the mounting nuts to the nipples on the bottoms of their hot and cold inlets, and hand-tighten the nuts. Then adjust the position of the faucet and tighten the nuts using slip-joint pliers.

Put the sink onto the pedestal base. Attach the drain tailpiece to the drain nipple throughout the pedestal base, and tighten the joint using slip-joint pliers. Then assess the distance from the floor to the base of the P-trap already set up on the drain line. Install the lower half of this P-trap to the tailpiece from the pedestal sink in this height, and fasten the coupler using the slip-joint pliers.

Slide the end of this pop-up drain pole through the hole at the middle of the back of the sink, and link the pole to the extension by tightening the set screw onto the extension bracket. Then connect the extension to the lift pole using the slide spring. Examine the operation of this pop-up arm along with the stopper in the sink, and adjust the lift pole as needed to ensure proper operation.

Slide the sink and pedestal into position from the wall. Lift the sink slightly to fasten the mounting bracket on the back of the sink to the wall bracket. Combine the two halves of this P-trap and tighten the coupler using the slip-joint pliers.

Mount any floor bolts as required from the base of the pedestal to the floor, by predrilling holes and driving the lag bolts using the adjustable wrench. If no mounts are required, caulk around the base with silicone tub and tile caulk.

Wrap thread seal tape around the nipples of every water inlet valve 2 to 3 times. Measure the distance from the nipple to the hot water supply valve to the hot water inlet on the faucet. Cut a slice of chromed supply tube 1 inch longer than this distance. Add a coupler and ferrule to one end, then connect that end to the distribution valve using an adjustable wrench. Gently bend the tube so that it aligns with the base of the faucet inlet, then add a faucet coupler and ferrule to the end of the tube and then connect it to the faucet nipple. Repeat to your cold water feed.

Turn the two water supply inlets, then turn on the faucet and analyze the operation of this inlets, sink and drain lines.

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The Way to Ask for a Loan

Traditional banks offer financing options for people who qualify, but circumstances such as bad credit, foreclosure or income that is challenging to prove will frequently leave a homeowner in grief. Opting to search for answers has led several homeowners to hard money lenders. Sources for hard cash loans include personal creditors, insurance companies and pools of investors who offer funding at above-average danger in exchange for a high interest rate and charges. Average hard cash interest rates range from 10 to 18 percent and frequently require 3 to 2 points (a point is equal to 1 percent of the loan amount). Hard money loans are equity based, with most lenders capping loan limits to a maximum of 65 percent of your property value. Hard cash loans are issued on residential and industrial properties.

Write a detailed list of your needs for a hard money loan along with the given amount of money which you will ask for.

Find hard money lenders on the internet. Use the Scotsman’s Guide as well as other tools to find hard money lenders.

Call a creditor such as Kennedy Funding or other hard money lenders to provide your pitch for a hard money loan. Speak with a loan , inform him of your situation and ask for the amount of money which you want. Be ready to explain your reason for the desired amount of money.

Expedite your submission of documents. Hard money loans are assessed on a case-by-case basis; but several requests are time sensitive. Promptly reply to information requests from your creditor to prevent any delays. You’ll have to forward information regarding your income and property when seeking a hard money loan.

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Guest Groups: Rock the Casbah Appearance

Inject some Moroccan flavor into your house this spring — plane tickets and passports not mandatory! Architectural arches, lattice wall prints and gorgeous detailing on tumblers, tagines and tables are up for grabs. This style is among the season’s latest trends. It is infinitely approachable and impossibly chic. — Lani from Mon Petit Chou Chou

Laura U, Inc..

The geometric cutouts and accents are such a creative way to dress up a boring bookshelf. Insert a few burnished lamps, et voilĂ !


Pearson Ottoman

Quirky, adorable and walking on the line somewhere between traditional and modern, this ottoman by Pearson will be a welcome addition to my living room.

Maya Inlay Mirror White – $695

This inlay mirror is more ornate but totally impartial, a tough combination to reach. How perfect would it be hanging in an entryway? It provides guests a opportunity to primp prior to their trip.


Tunisian Hand-Painted Mosaic Tagine – $49.95

Picture functional and perfect, this Tunisian hand-painted tagine out of Williams-Sonoma is too pretty to lock at a cupboard. Put it on some open shelving.


Moroccan Style Tea Glasses – Set of Four – $60

These tumblers are really fun with wine. Don’t relegate the vino into stemware; it’s perfectly at home in ornate glasses such as these.

Tan Moroccan Leather Pouf – $450

Poufs are definitely with a moment. This leather version from Serena & Lily is handmade in Morocco and well worth the investment.


Orange Mekissa Bench Place – $2,700

The deep tangerine Mekissa couch is ornamented with patterned fabric and finished with wooden silver and carved Moorish artwork. It is a luxe patio topper for hot summer nights around the fire pit.


Morocco Tile Salad Plates

I love these richly textured Moroccan tile salad dishes. They would be gorgeous for wine and cheese. I have a similar version that I endlessly use when entertaining.

Lucy Interior Design

Minimalist Moroccan does exist! This neutral area is cranked up a notch with vibrant squares and an inspired napping window.

Pottery Barn

Moroccan Tray Table – $399

I picked up a brass version of a tray table at Brimfield this past year. Forget the searching, Pottery Barn has done the job for you with their Moroccan tray table.


Lola Sofa, Turquoise – $9,090

Boring, this couch is not! It is filled with pizzazz and style. I’d love a vibrant accent such as this in my den.

Pottery Barn

Moroccan Pendant – $99

Moroccan lighting is a superb way to inject some exotic style into your space. I’d personally string some of these in a reading nook to create a comfy corner.

West Elm

Morocco Headboard, White Lacquer – $399

Inspired by nautical Moroccan patterns, this headboard out of West Elm makes a neutral and attention-grabbing appearance.


‘Floating Arabesque’ Side Table – $499

Horchow’s Floating Arabesque side table is discreet, hovering along with your couch or bedside. It is ideal for any space.


‘Morocco Tile’ Throws – $195

Entirely noncommittal and fun, these vibrant throws have a fantastic print and are an effortless way to test drive the fashion.


Kasbah Coffee Table – $998

I could build a complete living space around this Kasbah java table from Anthropologie. Whitewashed and rustic, it appears like it was hand-plucked out of a street bazaar.


Embroidered Fesi Pillow – $148

These embroidered cushions are crafted by Mushmina, a business that uses over 75 fair-trade artisans in Northern Africa. Inspired by Moroccan motifs, these cushions are begging to be tossed on my sofa.

Casbah Decor

Sharafa Door – $4,200

This really is a swoon-worthy announcement piece. Handmade cedar-inlaid doors directly from Marrakech could make for a dramatic entry into any space, or they may be dividers if mounted on sliders, or perhaps artwork if mounted on the wall.

First Mission Tile

Marrakech Moroccan Cement Tiles

I debated using a daring print tile such as this in my kitchen. It is such a crazy dose of pattern to possess underfoot.

First Mission Tile

Fes Moroccan Cement Tiles

Ultimately, I decided the tiles could be a lot, however they’d have made for a fabulous backsplash in retrospect.

Carson Poetzl, Inc..

Moroccan details abound from floor to ceiling in this luxe lounge. The blue color of the wall is surprising but well balances the gilt finishes and ornate paint.


Hattane Curves Rug – $920

This carpet, referred to as a boucharouette or rag rug, was inspired by an ancient cosmetic technique. It uses recycled fabric pieces that are hand-woven to a one-of-a-kind piece that is perfect for your property.


Organic Modern Coffee Table

How cool is this table? It is organic and wrapped completely in hyacinth. The design and design legs are a really modern spin on Moroccan themes.


Menzah Chandelier – $698

The Menzah chandelier is a rainbow of colour and etched cast brass. The crown-like shape makes for a regal statement that will go with any color scheme.

A Curated World by Kay McGowan

Linen Pillow Cover Sofia – $188

Made by La Maison Bahira at Marrakech, these embroidered pillow covers are completely stitched by hand. This coral red would be perfect on my bed — I may want to pick these up for myself!


Candice Olson Dimensional Surfaces Moroccan Lattice Sand Wallpaper, Charcoal – $219.84

The cool grey foundation of the Moroccan lattice background would work nicely in a washroom. I have done a similar colour scheme in my downstairs powder room, and it plays very nicely with white, black and silver finishes.


Wall Stencil, Moroccan Allower design by OMG Stencils – $30

Or you can create the exact same appearance using a weathered wall stencil. And you’ll be able to choose your own colours — the ultimate in custom wall decor.

A Curated World by Kay McGowan

Wool Pom-Pom Blanket – $385

These pom-pom wool blankets were made by Chez les Freres Kassri, a generational design small business. I’d love to use one of them as a bedspread, and then fold it down in the day to assemble the pom-poms.

Next: Book to Know: Marrakesh By Design

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Guest Groups: Hankering for Houndstooth

Houndstooth is popular in 2013. From large-scale designs in punchy colors to traditional small-scale patterns in black and white, you’re certain to locate a houndstooth item that appeals to a sense of style. Here is a collection of 19 interesting houndstooth products available on the market. Which one speaks to you? — Beth from Home Stories A to Z


Blissliving Home ‘Trafalgar’ Bedding

Houndstooth requires a new turn this year with large-scale patterns and fun colors. I love this neutral duvet paired with all the pops of orange.

The Wall Decal Company

Removable Background, Houndstooth – $149.95

Removable houndstooth wallpaper? Yes, please! I am fond of stencils due to their versatility and non-committal character, but removable wall stickers would be much simpler. This houndstooth decal in cheery yellow would make a fantastic focus.

Rugs USA

Spectrum Houndstooth Texture Ivory Rug – $337

I love the idea of bringing more texture into an area without always adding more color. I’d love this ivory houndstooth rug as a stair runner.

Houndstooth Polypropylene Area Rug – $29.99

Indoor/outdoor rugs are becoming a new popular decorating go-to item for me personally for their versatility and low-budget price. I love the fun color options provided for this houndstooth rug.


Mint Houndstooth Throw Pillow – $49.95

Whether you like your houndstooth in traditional black and white or in a milder pastel, it’s no problem to locate a pattern that suits your decor. This monogrammed houndstooth pillow would look adorable in my own guest room.


Blue and Brown Houndstooth Plate – $32.10

Houndstooth dishes are a great way to get into the trend without a great deal of commitment or cost. I’m loving all the different colors houndstooth that can be found nowadays.

Zinc Door

Zebra Houndstooth Rug – $995

Leave it to Jonathan Adler to take 2 quirky tendencies and blend them. This chocolate brown houndstooth zebra rug would certainly make for an enjoyable conversation piece.


Threshold Houndstooth Pillow, Gray – $19.99

Target’s cheap accessories always catch my attention. This cute neutral houndstooth pillow with all the pop of red is sure to be a crowd pleaser.

Room Service

Houndstooth Balloon Chair – $1,695

Balloon seats are announcement bits no matter the upholstery. Insert some classic yet fearless houndstooth fabric, and they truly require attention. Wouldn’t those be fabulous paired with some brilliant jewel tones?

The Home Depot

Houndstooth Dark Chocolate Paper Candle Covers – $13.97

Chandelier candles are often overlooked as an enjoyable area to accessorize. I love the idea of buying these punchy paper houndstooth candle covers to spice up a tired light fixture.

Plow & Hearth

Houndstooth Dog Draft Stopper – $29.95

It may be tough to tell from this film, but this hound draft stopper is covered in houndstooth (pun intended). My boys would love it when I purchased this for the drafty front door.

Garnet Hill

Houndstooth Flat-Weave Wool Rug – $188

Flat-weave rugs are fantastic for high-traffic places. The gray and white houndstooth rug would look so sweet at a nursery.

Hand-Painted Black and White Houndstooth Accent Chest – $307.99

White and black houndstooth on a timeless chest generates such an enjoyable bit for a bedroom. I love the idea of adding picture designs to furniture.


Houndstooth Mouse Pad, Pink and Red by Smitten Kitten Designs – $10

Whenever there’s a trend I wish to share in, like houndstooth fabrics in punchy colors, I look for small non-committal tactics to implement the appearance. This pink and red mouse pad is a perfect way to have a bit of this houndstooth craze this year.

Barstools & More

Decorize Barstools

I love the large-scale houndstooth pattern on this bar stool. The open rear and somewhat distressed wood also appeal to me personally. This would look fantastic at a folksy kitchen.


Houndstooth Pillow Covers, Black and Gold by Alive House – $62

The gold and black large-scale houndstooth pattern has a modern art deco vibe to it. With The Great Gatsby movie release in its own way, I predict you’ll be seeing a great deal of fun art deco–motivated accessories making their way in your home.


‘Houndstooth Mosaic’ Vases – $85

I adore capiz shells. Would you believe that these vases are made to a houndstooth pattern using a variety of tones of cream and gold cubes? They’re so beautiful.

Neiman Marcus

Houndstooth Vanity Chair – $499

Simple and unassuming clean lines using a classic houndstooth pattern create this vanity seat a winner in my book. I’d love to get this for my bedroom.


Bacati Houndstooth Window Curtain, Brown/White – $34.99

I think these large-scale brown and white houndstooth drapes would look adorable in a little boys’ room. They are modern yet masculine.

Next: 12 Prepped-Out Patterns

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How to Install a Drain Tub for an Overflowing Washing Machine

A top-loading washing machine can use as much as 40 gallons of water, whereas a front-loading machine typically utilizes between 20 to 25 gallons. If your washing machine should happen to develop a leak, dumping that water on the floor could lead to critical damage. A drain bathtub will capture the majority of the leaking water and guide it to a nearby floor drain, thereby reducing the possibility of water damage caused by a leak.

Pull the washing machine away from the wall and then disconnect the plug from the socket. Turn off both water valves. Eliminate the water hoses from the valves using a pair of slip-joint pliers. Lift the drain hose out of the wall drain and then thrust the washing machine out of the way.

Place a washing machine drain pan in the floor space reserved for the washing machine. Explain the nearest floor surface and measure the distance along the desired route to the drain. Cut sections of 1/2-inch PVC using a PVC cutter or hacksaw to construct a drain line using any requisite elbows to connect the drain hole in the bathtub using the floor drain. Clean each joint in the drain line using PVC cleaner before applying PVC cement to the combined and assembling the link.

Thread a 1/2-inch PVC threaded coupler into the drain hole on the bathtub. Wash and cement the coupler before inserting the end of the drain line into the coupler.

Lift the washing machine with the aid of an assistant and set the washing machine into the drain bathtub. Adjust the position of the washing machine until it is centered within the bathtub, then connect the feed lines to the valves. Slide the tip of the drain hose into the wall drain and turn on the water heaters. Plug the washer into the socket.

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The way to Tighten a Nut Under a New Sink Fixture

Sink fixtures come with everything you need to attach them securely into your sink, except instructions for tightening those hard-to-reach nuts. If you are putting in a new sink, you can put in the fixture until you put in the sink, while the nut remains readily accessible. Once the sink is, however, you normally have to crawl under it to tighten the nuts, and there is seldom room to get a wrench or a pair of adjustable pliers. Do what plumbers do and use a basin wrench to make the task all but effortless.

Clear off the shelves under the sink to give yourself more room to function. If the sink P-trap is in the way, remove it by unscrewing the nuts holding it into the sink tailpiece and wall drain, using adjustable pliers.

Insert the fixture into the right hole in the sink, middle it and align it with the back wall. Have a helper hold it steady while you fasten the retaining nut out from under the sink.

Wear a headlamp and place your head so that you can see the nut readily. Screw the nut and tighten it as much as possible by hand.

Use a basin wrench to tighten the nut the remainder of the way. A basin wrench includes jaws that clamp on the nut along with a long handle so that you can reach it easily. Fit the jaws of the wrench across the nut and rotate the grip. The jaws automatically tighten when you do this. Keep turning the handle until the nut is tight enough and the fixture is stationary.

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